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Sorry no it's uPVC. Asking as I had another window that was causing damp spots in the bottom corners of the reveals, due to water tracking through the cill. So wondered if it was worth sealing the ends with silicone while exposed

Thanks guys. Worth trying to seal the ends of the cill or am I worrying over nothing?

Hi all After some advice on how to fix this please. I took the tiles off in the bathroom and most of the plaster came with them, exposing this gap between the reveal and frame. It's a solid blockwork wall, no cavity. If I feel inside the gap, I can feel the end of the cill which appears to be...

I'm insulating an external wall on the inside and got to the bit round the window. I've knocked the plaster off to allow 25mm Kingspan inside the reveal but ended up knocking bits of breeze block off with it. I've built it back up again with sand and cement mortar then rendered it flat with the...

Is that no vapour barrier needed or no insulation needed at all?

Thanks, I've put acoustic insulation in the wall adjoining the bedroom but it's the exterior wall I wasn't sure about

I've found lots of information on what to do when insulating a solid wall but nothing for this situation, hoping someone can help please. I'm building a false wall on the bathroom to hide the pipes, essentially boxing them in but floor to ceiling. The external wall is a cavity wall, plaster...

Sorry just a bit paranoid about damp and mould getting on the other half's clothes.... I was going to leave a decent gap under the doors for ventilation and probably a couple of vents (bedroom side). I can also get the central heating pipes rerouted so they run along the bottom of the outside...

Not so keen on having an actual heater in there, but there are heating pipes running down one corner so they may help a bit. Is it worth insulating the wall to compensate for the heat from the bedroom no longer getting all the way to the back?

Hi all I'm starting work on a pair of walk in wardrobes by partitioning off some of the bedroom, the back of which is a north facing external wall. The wall is a cavity, which is insulated and not especially cold at the moment but I am aware this will change when it is closed off from the rest...

Thanks Terry, appreciated

Yes he has agreed to me running the cable, as in literally just running it up the house and through the loft to be connected by him, no different surely to him employing a lad to do the donkey work? He also installed the consumer unit so I assume he knows it's limitations. The boiler is at the...

Hadn't thought about a mixer shower, my understanding was an electric shower would be less likely to change temperature if someone elsewhere in the house flushes a loo or whatever. I have already run a 10mm cable for the second shower, to be connected (by a qualified spark) to a separate MCB on...

Hi all I'm planning an ensuite and as the existing bathroom is in the next room, I was planning to run the hot and cold pipes up inside the wall and through the loft above the ensuite. I can then put t-joints in along the horizontal pipes in the loft, and drop down vertically at the...

Thanks guys, that's a great help. I'm probably overthinking it, it's only a short section to make good, I'm just a bit nervous about creating cold spots next to the window and mould forming

Sorry to be a pain, but I wondered if this is the only way to do it? Just thinking of the difficulties of fixing the plasterboard through 140mm of cellotex, I haven’t seen any drywall screws long enough. Some sites I’ve read talk about having a service void between the insulation and the...

Nice one, thanks again

Thanks Doggit, just so I understand, there would be a gap between the wall and the cellotex (ie the thickness of the battens)? And the cellotex should fill the whole cavity from battens up to the plasterboard? The distance from the outside skin to the inside edge of the wall is 18cm

I've had a window replaced with a smaller one and the gaps to the side bricked up. To save money I told the builder I would finish off the inside so it has been left as in the photo with just the outside skin. Rather than bricks/blocks on the inside, I was thinking of insulating the outside skin...

The cables were run through a bit of stud wall to get to original switch, which involved a few strategic holes, then along quite a long wall in the zone below the ceiling which now has coving fitted. The second switch was a last minute afterthought, hence the lack of research. It isn't essential...