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Well everything seems to be running ok for now, have tested various combinations of CH and HW on and off. Will keep an eye on it, but at least I know what the issue probably if it recurs. Thanks all for your help!

Yes. Definitely moving a bit more easily, although still can't move it by hand

It's extremely stiff and can only be turned with a wrench. I've found a "silicon oil" spray that I applied about an hour ago and it hasn't improved it. Sound like the valve needs to be replaced?

Afternoon all. I was curious as to why this might have started happening and was fiddling with the actuator on the mid position valve this morning. Is it possible this has become "lazy"? After reseating it on the valve, the voltage I measured as 120 last night is now 80 and the boiler isn't...

Great. I will try this tomorrow and report back. Thanks all for your help today!

It's a British Gas 330 which seems to be a rebadged Glow-worm HXI something or other :) Amateur hour now - what is a snubber network and when you say fit it across orange and neutral is that the orange and neutral of the mid-position valve back in the wiring centre? Sorry, one more q - why on...

After seeing such a high voltage it sounds quite similar to this issue - //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/hive-wired-wrong.418141/page-2 Is it possible this 120v is triggering the boiler to stay on?

Hi all Thanks for your further posts.. I read about 120v between neutral and the CH demand wire when CH and HW are off at the stat. And the boiler continues to run...

Sure. Pic attached. The wire on the right goes into the programmer

Yes, definitely has worked in the past. It's in fact a WR1 wireless receiver. I can see the "heating on" light on the receiver go on and off as I alter the wireless room thermostat. There's a wire going into it, and the wire coming out goes straight into the programmer backplate. So I presume...

Just turned the HW off again and left CH on at the programmer but turned it down on the thermostat so boiler should have stopped but carried on. Pulled the programmer off the backplate and the boiler stopped immediately. Edit: with programmer removed from backplate it's again 185 on the orange...

Hi, yep it's 185 on the Orange with everything off, and 100 on the white. Pump not running and boiler not running. Now I turned central heating on and kept hot water off at the programmer. Boiler set to "summer". Both wires read exactly same as before. Now turn temp up on the boiler, pump is...

Leftmost black wire coming in is the 3 port valve. 2 greys next to it I have no idea. The next white cable along is the pump. And the very last white cable is the HW stat.

Hi. Cheers, ok... I read 185V between orange and blue as requested. Just to confirm I'm using meter correctly I got 230v between a random live and neutral!! Full pic attached

Yep

Also: there is a stat on the HW cylinder set to 50. This seems to be being adhered to as the flow into the cylinder cools down once the water is hot - so seems the issue is on the central heating side.

Thanks, OK not as simple as I thought then! A few months ago noticed that the boiler basically never stops going, no matter what the programmer or stat are set to. The boiler seems to be working fine - getting hot water in the tank and hot radiators but we have to turn the manual temperature...

Hi, My heating system no longer responds to the stat/programmer and can now only be controlled by turning the boiler down. I've removed the front of the programmer (British Gas UP2, which seems to be a relabelled programme made by Invensys) and can see a pin missing - see first attached...