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So true, good to see it solved though. All in all they aren’t a bad appliance

Fantastic, happy the wiring advice came in handy, the guidance is poor on the wiring, volt free should have a clearer label. Have you got the instructions? Got them on my phone as a PDF if ever you need it.

I’ve checked the faults you described in earlier posts, definitely PCB has gone, showing 3 different faults at same time, must of blown the capacitors.

You can buy them from builders merchants, should be every metre from your elbow on the boiler

Fingers crossed

F1 is ignition lockout, sounds like a rectification fault if it won’t stay lit, I bet the PCB has gone kaput unfortunately. CXI’s are awkward if you haven’t wired one up, instructions are clear as mud! I’m sure our boys can sort it, worth a years premiums to get it sorted, a board can cost £300 plus

Good luck, check your fuse on the PCB too, or is hot water working? If it is fuse will be ok

All depends on how far the surge went, you will need to check with a multimeter resistance and continuity on your harness to make sure nothing else got fried. Most important thing is not to link L to 1 in your hive. To test it, disconnect your black and grey from the low volt connector and fit a...

No, you will need to change the interface board, and DO NOT link L to 1 in the hive. Put grey in 1 and black in 3,(doesn’t matter which way round) this will then make the hive volt free switching which should make the CXI fire ok.

All depends where your old control was wired to, if it went onto the old board on the 240v plug, can’t see why it went, but as I said if it was wired to the low volt/volt free connector, with two pink or pink/blue wires which are quite small and it was linked L to 1 this would of blown the...

It all depends on where you put your black and grey, if it is on the voltage free connections(the small pink and blue wires on the PCB cover) and you linked from L to 1 on your hive this would create 240v on your volt free side. On a CXI there is a plug on your control board for 240v controls...

Here is the diagram for 2 valves wired to a combination boiler. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Thread closed to prevent Hijacks. Please start a new thread for a new applications. Mod

Great, pleased the advice helped. Use the app, easy to set a schedule, geolocation is a good tool too.

I’ve got a diagram I can send you via email which will be of use, it’s on my laptop I will send it to my phone and post it here, Hive is just an advanced thermostat, wiring is simple enough.

Should be ok then, as your central heating on in the wiring centre from your programmer should go straight to the white on your mid position valve if there is no room thermostat. If you need any help Just ask

Good move, Vokera have a useful life of about 10 yrs, Hive should be fine with any new appliance, sounds bad if PRV was never terminated right, but at least you’ve had a pro to fit the new one.

Sounds like a diverter valve problem if radiators are heating up with hot water only. Might be stuck in the middle. Is your hot water cooler than it used to be?

No, the ST9400c backplate is rectangular, even though it’s single gang. You get ID stickers with the hive kit, make sure you isolate your electrics and identify which wire goes where, the plate should read left to right, N,L,1,2,3,4. Follow that and you should be ok, the only problem you may...

Grey wires on a S plan are permanent live to the zone valves. I'm a British Gas engineer, multizone is easy enough once all wires are identified. All depends on what type of controls are existing. I've got the Honeywell wiring guide I can send you if you are stuck

The unit works as a transmitter( the thermostat) and receiver (the unit plugged into the boiler fascia) working on "wireless" radio frequency control. As said previously, they both need to be paired together to work. If you contact Worcester they may be able to tell you where to obtain a...