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The loop red is connected to C (common) on the switch. this the red in the 3 wire. the single red is then seperate in unmarked connection. same with the black. So my next question is, is this a 2 way switch?

I have what i suspect is original lighting wiring in my house which was built in 1960's. The wiring is 3 core, red black& earth. there is also a seperate thick red wire. i have a double switch in the front hall which operates the hall light and the outside light. there is only one set of...

I bought a '60's built bungalow with a flat roof garage attached. the roof slopes to the rear and the down pipe goes through the concrete then into a black 'plastic' 100mm pipe. I excavated it tonight as i thought the drain was blocked. common problem around here. i went down to 1300mm but...

i have had to put in some hedging plants to plug the gaps caused by the butchering of fur trees in the past. I have chosen 3 different types of plants. however as they are between the wall and tree trunks the sun light gets to just a few which means the others will be drowned out soon. what...

I am building a timber frame garage next to my brick built garage. I need to know if people have use grp and steel and which is better suited or more preferable. the garage is 2.7 metres wide by 5.5m long. it is going to be dense block up to 3 blocks high which is going to support timber...

the house was built in the mid 1960's.

I took the gas fire out of the fireplace to look what is behind it. the chimney is central between living room and kitchen. I thought there might have been a back boiler but it's empty and there is sooting in places, i assume it was actually a real flame fireplace. I need to take the chimney...

I have now sorted the issue. It was a stuck impeller. Thanks for all if your help n

update after info from vaillant. They say it's either the flow sensor or the main board. I thought the flow sensor had been changed but there seem to be 2 fitted. 1 up top and 1 down the bottom where the cold water enters. I think the wrong sensor was changed. Secondly they gave us voltage...

sorry i forgot that. all wires were traced and free from entrapment and damage.

Update The diverter valve & aqua flow sensor have been replaced. Still there is no hot water. There is no demand in the d codes so the boiler does not know we're calling for dhw. I'm going to call vaillant tomorrow for some advice, if they'll give it.

there is no s code when the dhw tap is on. It does run through the s code cycles when the comfort tank is heating. it also runs through the heating s codes when the heating is on. It's as if the boiler doesn't know the tap is on. my guess now is the aqua flow turbine

nothing happens when two buttons pressed and tap run. S code?? When looking at the boiler the left side 15mm pipe gets hot. On another thread with similar issue it calls the fault to two possibilities 1. aqua sensor / flow turbine 2. pump. The author hasn't replied with resolution

no that's not it. When i turn on comfort mode, the boiler stores a small amount of hot water so that when you turn the tap on the hot water is instant. This happens through the hot taps. In my mind there is a signal/instructon failure between the diverter, main board and possibly something...

the fault was no hot water when the taps turned on. the boiler had been idle for 2 years except for low heating. The house was empty for this period. The engineer changed the valve but has not worked on this boiler before.

Valliant Eco tech plus 832 - 4 years old We have had the diverter valve changed, brand new Valliant part but still is not switching to heat the hot water. Exactly the same problem now as before we changed the valve - what else could it be to not send or receive a signal with the diverter valve?

I've bought a new house that has a single garage that is attatch by about 3 feet. The size is 5.5m x 3m but i'm going to extend it to 7m x 4m. The new roof beams will be c24 50 x 200 and i'll be using 0.7mm box profile steel sheets as roofing material. I'll also be plasterboarding the ceiling...

the pull start will jam part way through the pull (nearly tearing fingers off) but then once released it then pulls normally again, until the next jam. The engine does turn over completely and does not touch the plug electrode. the valves cycle normally also

My new compression test gauge arrived today. the result is 110psi. plenty of compression to start i reckon. I'm at a loss now. The plug sparks and the coil is new. The carb is new. The red button squirts into the carb. I think it's time to revisit the timing perhaps. The motor pulls over...

back again. new genuine flywheel key fitted today, spark plug gap is 0.30", coil gap is 0.012", fuel into the carb via red primer button on the side. new spark plug and there is good spark when pulling. still no start!!!! i was mistaken previously there is no fuel getting into the oil...