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Concrete post would be a waste in that location, given that you already have something substantial to attach it to, and the loadings will be small enough not to worry about. You are presumably going to have to make up your own panel [or cut one down] anyway, for that gap? I am assuming you're...

Is there an exact description of how the post is rated at 10y? If it's 10y when in contact with the ground then you will be able to exceed that when bolted to a concrete spur.

J&K posted in here about how fitting a worktop after someone else has done the cabinets is usually a nightmare because they rarely manage to get them adequately square and level. Something to think about!

Prune the roots before moving them [6 months before, according to this]: https://blog.davey.com/tree-transplanting-cutting-tree-roots-without-killing-a-tree/ I suggest doing some research on each species of tree you want to move. And budget for some replacements, if you really like them...

This "should have bolted it up" implies that if one doesn't promptly secure the worktop down when it arrives, then it's just going to spontaneously warp itself or split. That can't be right, surely?

If you see "Z" in a timestamp, that's UTC - zero hours offset from UTC, supposedly.

Don't forget about snow loading [I assume it occasionally snows, even in leafy Berkshire].

Unless it was really quite expensive, or the warranty has so many holes in it that you could never claim, then this is a borderline scam, as you have observed.

Stick with ones that use Makita LXT batteries. At least you will then have some usable batteries + charger if the cheap tool ever dies, that you can use with a replacement tool.

I can see a rose and a fuchsia in there, and sundry other weeds. It was probably quite nice once, just needs some tidying. Fuchsia can take a good hard pruning but the time for that has probably passed this year. You can remove all the dead wood, though.

Can't even see an oak in your recent picture, so seems like you got rid of it pretty effectively? I have a self-seeded oak in my garden that is 3 years old and it's not even a foot tall yet. You've probably got some time until it's a "monster".

Yes, I can see the very caterpillars that aveatry described, in that picture.

Presumably they have negative phone numbers there because it's on the other side of the world? It would be pretty unlikely to accidentally break the glass and flip the switch down, so I guess that's why it's like that.

If that's £13 for 5 then that's not too bad. Given how random the lifetime of bulbs can be, I think an adaptor makes more sense because it's not going blow [surely...] and means that one has a much greater choice of bulbs that can be fitted.

Perhaps if it wasn't sufficiently coated, the general use of the worktop [ie, spilling liquid on it] has raised the grain.

If you wanted a wider spread of light then surely 2-3 pendants with a normal light bulb on would have made more sense than 10x 50W halogens! I used to live in a house with 6 of the f****rs in the kitchen, the GU10 CFL bulbs were a great solution.

Someone who lived in this house previously, must have been doing this. Any digging I do in my garden below about 20cm results in all kinds of vintage litter. I really can't fathom why anyone would put all that effort in to burying it.

I think from now on whenever someone asks how to do something that is fiddly, laborious and pointless, we can say to them "but that would be like trying to get paint off OSB!"

I would be very cautious about modifying a fire door.

IMO "low odour Oil/Spirit" is a contradiction. The more you ventilate, the quicker it will be. If you had a damp problem then you probably want good airflow for a while until everything has dried out completely. Even if you didn't have a damp issue, suspended timber floors should have airflow...