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Hello, this is a house in UK, built in the early '70s. Some parts of the outer walls are made of concrete blocks. I suppose they are one of the common types: e.g., aggregate, lightweight or aircrete, but I'm not sure which one. I would like to know in order to buy the appropriate...

One pic shows the experiments I'm doing with supporting a type 11 radiator (160cm wide, 50cm high, total weight around 35kg) using universal column radiator feet. The other pic shows the detail of the contact surface between the rad and the feet. Aesthetic considerations apart, is there...

The inner side of an exterior wall in my house has, behind the plasterboard, a kind of masonry which I'd like to identify. I attach pictures. It looks like concrete but it's quite easy to drill: I can very easily drill it with a 2mm wood/metal drill bit in a HAND (i.e., not electric) drill. This...

I need to hang a radiator (160cm wide, 50cm high, total weight around 35kg) via two brackets to a plasterboard wall. The wall is external, so that it has studs (about 12mm deep and 50mm wide) behind the plasterboard and then bricks behind the studs. I am lucky enough to have studs in...

I'd like to hang a gas central heating vertical radiator on a single timber stud behind a thin plasterboard wall. The stud is 38mm wide (actual size) and (presumably, difficult to measure) around 75mm deep. The radiator would weigh around 35kg in total, spread across a number of screws which can...

Hi, I have an internal, decorated plasterboard wall with poor studding: 120cm from its left end, there is a 22mm wide (i.e., as measured horizontally parallel to the wall) stud, then a 38mm stud (the two studs are spaced 60cm), then, after further 78cm, the jack stud of the door. I couldn't find...

I have a 225cm wide, 45cm high radiator on a standard vented, 8mm microbore two-pipe, fully pumped system. I am getting rid of its old twin entry radiator valve to install a trv, so I need to decide where to position it and the lockshield. Easiest option would be TBSE (top-bottom, same end) on...

Hi, I managed to push two 15mm pex pipes through the underfloor space of a second floor. They go (on a straight run between two parallel joists) from a hole in the floorboard (18mm thick) under an existing radiator to another hole in the contiguous room's floorboard, ready to attach a new...

I need to run central heating pipe horizontally under the floorboards of an upper floor. I need to go through only one 75mm wide beam, but I'm wary of boring or notching it, also because that would be quite close to the wall bearing the beam. So I thought of running an 8mm or 10mm pipe...

Hi, I have an old traditional gas boiler (two pipe, fully pumped system, if that matters) sitting on the floor and touching the wall, as from the first pic. The second pic zooms in on a hole the boiler has in the rear, leaving a gap with the wall. I am planning to run two 15mm copper pipes...

Hi, I have a standard radiator (1/2" female bsp) on which I'm installing a new lockshield/TRV kit. The lockshield is similar to this: What happens if I remove the nut and everything on its left in the pic, and screw the valve directly into the radiator (with PTFE)? This would simplify my...

In a conventional system, the standard arrangement is to have a gate valve on the (typically 28mm) cold feed pipe from cistern to cylinder. Out of curiosity, I was wondering why you won't find it on the hw pipe (typically 22mm) going out of the cylinder instead. Of course, positioned after the...

Hi, I have a two-pipe fully pumped S plan open vented system. When I drained it last time, I had the impression there is some sludge or dirt around it. I therefore am going to drain it again to install a magnetic filter. I was thinking of taking this chance to add a tee on the feed pipe (the...

Tonight the arm of the ballcock feeding the cold water storage cistern in my attic broke (quite puzzling: maybe due to strong wind causing some turbulence??). Anyway, I need to replace it. I know it's faster to replace only the part inside the tank, undoing the very last compression nut. But...

Hi, just after the mains stopcock under my kitchen sink I have a tee, one pipe to drinkable water+washing machine and the other to the loft cisterns (talking about an open vented pumped S-plan system, standard here in UK). I was wondering whether it is safe to add an isolating valve on the...

I am adding radiators to my 2-pipe pumped, vented central heating (UK). The whole piping is copper 22mm and microbore, and I'm extending it with 15mm pex barrier pipe graded for central heating. I know that the first bit of pipes connected to the boiler must be copper, which is the case...

Today I drained my CH/HW. This is a standard vented, pumped S plan with two electric valves, and I'm in UK. I was lucky enough to have a drain valve underneath ground floor, relatively accessible, see pics: However, upon refilling the system, I found out that that valve will rotate...

I have this at home: Glue and I need to solvent-weld these abs drain piping: pipe and elbow Can I avoid purchasing solvent cement? Or would that present some problem? Thanks.

I had to remove portions of the existing subfloor chipboard panels (18mm depth), which now I need to replace (I already bought a new P5 panel). The problem is that one edge of the hole is irregular, and I'm worried that parts of the new chipboard won't have sufficient resting contact with the...

There are plenty of tutorials for sealing/caulking bathtubs. However, my bathtub has a kind of skirting around its edge, as in picture: How do I go about that? Should I caulk both edges? I plan to use standard silicone, would that be good for both? Is there any particular I should keep in mind...