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Morning We have a couple of Double Glazed windows (26 years old) that needs replacing in our Wooden Frame Windows but am just after a bit of advice on what Sealant/Silicone/Compound is needed to put the window in. Please bear with me If it is Silicone, does it have to be Low Modulus Silicone...

Thanks for that link The Lifestyle LP241 Heating Programmer we have at present is the old one which was in when we moved in to the house (new build) in 1994, as the image shown in my opening post So could we have a current model LP112, LP241, LP522, LP722, LP241Si, LP522Si or LP722Si on top of...

It seems the Programmer has had it Does this have to be a Lifestyle LP241 Heating Programmer or will another similar Drayton model fit straight in with needs for re-wiring Thanks

We only had a small leak from the radiator around 6 months ago in the Living Room It was fine Tuesday night as we went to bed although there was neither the Hot Water or Heating on, just the Program Timer set to 'Twice' for both, but the Room Thermostat turn right down to Minimum It was just...

I have put the other Valve on and still no luck......Fuse blows even though the Boiler was OFF No idea what could be causing it:( The Valve is this

Looks like a system drain down in the morning then I do have a used Drayton Mid Position Valve so I will try that Again thanks for your help

Here is the Valve. Is what you say still apply? Thanks so far for you help

Sorry for sounding a bit thick but as I removed the orange wire, does this mean the Valve had no power to it or is the Live wire to the Valve another colour?

The orange wire I removed and isolated is from the Mid Position Valve, which I guess rules out the Mid Position Valve being the problem as once I powered back on the still fuse blew....is that right?

I can say there is no smell or anything from the Mid Position Valve. I have removed the Orange wire (from the block in the picture) put the power back on, but it still blows the fuse? Would the actual ACL Lifestyle LP241 Heating Controller cause the fuse to blow if it has had it? I will add...

Before calling someone out, is it worth disconnecting, if possible, the Mid Position Valve near the Pump and see if that is the problem White marks indication Mid Position Valve wires

Well it has still tripped with the Pump disconnected:( Is there anything else it could be or test?

Thanks Back to the Pump test Do I just take the 'Live' out of the Pump as shown, or do I need to remove from the wiring board near the pump Thanks

Pressed the Test Button and sockets went off but the lights stayed on

Shall I try another Fuse again in the ACL Lifestyle LP241 Heating Controller and see what trips and see if the lights are okay Thanks

Well I have had a Shower :LOL:, Cooked Tea and all the Sockets are okay Now the Water Heater shows as ON. Is this the Cylinder Tank with the green 'coat' on in the Airing Cupboard what you can just see on my image of the Pump. I switched this to ON around 2pm via the cable coming from the top...

When I got up this morning everything was off as regards lights and sockets. Only the big Grey switch next to 'Test' had gone to OFF at the Mains (Back on as Picture shows but if I tried another Fuse in the Heating Controller it would go to Off) Immediately I noticed the ACL Lifestyle LP241...

Okay Cannot find any Terminal Blocks around the house or shed...thought I had some. So it will have to wait until tomorrow When I do try this. What if the power still blows the fuse after taking the Pump out of the equation? Thanks

Thanks for your reply The Pump is the Wilo Gold rs50 Do I remove all 3 wires and put a Terminal Block on each or just remove the Live one? Thanks

Woke up this morning to a power cut and noticed the ACL Lifestyle LP241 Heating Controller was still OFF when I switched the power back on at the mains On the wall next to the ACL Lifestyle is the Power Switch with a 3AMP Fuse in it. I changed this and it blew the Fuse and tripped the power at...