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Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 9:23 am Post Subject: Converting my basement -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi all I'm hoping to convert my basement. At present it's just a rough plaster finish with cold concrete floor.......ie.... a...

The difference between lime render and cement based render is like chalk and cheese and it's difficult to know where to begin. If your walls are solid then putting any render with cement in it is likely to cause you problems in the future. These problems arise because cement will not allow...

Well; masonry nails only go into masonry. Actually that's not quite true, they also shatter easily and take your eye out if you hit them slightly wrong. They also go into wood of course, but you haven't got any of that in your wall. They certainly won't go into a steel lintel though! A...

You can tell how often I hang curtains :oops: Patrick

As Static says, you could go above your lintol but you're almost certain to come across a seam of 450:1 (sand to cement) immediately on top of it followed by the crumbly edge of clinker block. Don't hold your breath with that one then. Hanging it from the ceiling, as suggested, is another...

Why won't the batten work? If you've got a catnic or some such thing over the window it migh be a lot easier to hire a Hilti gun and fix the batten that way. If it isn't a catnic - for instance if it's an RSJ, there'll either be a gap between the inner face of the steel and your plaster or...

Hi Annobium No, actually I quite like Konrad and I'm basically agnostic as to whether RD exists or not. Personally I think it does but if others don't want to think that then that's up to them. The lengths Konrad goes to to prove his point is, at least as far as I'm concerned, entirely...

Hi JB Well...I don't know about your personal problems but on my machine the top row looks a lot lighter than those beneath. It certainly did when I shone my light on it too! However; if that's what you see, then that's what you see. KR's Patrick

This link shows a picture, taken this week, of a dwarf wall beneath the floor of a 1970's house. Although the photo isn't brilliant and relies exclusively on flash for its lighting, the difference in colouration between the bricks beneath the dpc and the row above the dpc (which is the top...

The previous discussions on this thread, as far as I’m concerned, neither prove nor disprove any of the theories surrounding Rising Dampness. Konrad – for whom I have a tremendous respect and affection (which incidentally may come to an abrupt end if we lose on penalties – again - to You Know...

Actually John, that's not quite right. The purpose of leaving a vent in the flue is to do precisely that, i.e. ventilate it. The Vapour pressure in the house will force moist(er) air through the fabric of the walls and into the flue void, where it will cool and condense. This in turn can...

Would it be possible to lower the ground level by a couple of inches in the vicinity of the dpc? Perhaps a small trench or similar? Patrick

Absolutely John! Tanalised 25x50 laths, 25mm Kingspan and foil backed plaster boards. Job's a good un! Patrick

Whoa there Dino.... The company told you what? Salt migration??? Let's start at the beginning: An injection DPC is a two part process. The first part, i.e. the injection 'controls' the rising dampness and the second part; the re-plastering, prevents residual moisture and SALTS from...

Order of work: Go to supermarket: buy tea, milk and lots of sugar. Dig for, and install foundations and oversite etc (if not using timber for floors). Knock holes in walls and install door. While doing this: build lean-to Further trip to supermarket (include for something stronger...

I'm as confused as everyone else here. The airbricks first. Are they like waffle cakes with square holes in them and if so, where did this 'ere contractor put the silicon. In each hole? If he did, did he say why? Patrick

I presume you're having an injection dpc installed. This is a system that relies on two parts. The first part, i.e. the injection, controls but does not cure the rising dampness. The second part, i.e. the re-plastering, does two things. Firstly it prohibits the migration to the surface of...

As a last resort: you could cut out the offending section and trim it to the joists on either side! Patrick

Most builder's merchants sell it. Just tell them what you want and they'll sell you a five hundred gallon drum! You may be able to get a smaller one or you could try your undoubted charm on a road mending crew :D HTH Patrick

Matt I think the idea of rockwool between the joists etc stands a very good chance of going tits up. The idea of the warm roof principle, by Knauf or anyone, is that the joists are at room temperature. Yours won't be. If you do it this way, your vapour barrier is going to have to be...