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I can't seem to find a 'try square' over 600mm / 12 inches. Which I guess leaves me with a 'T square'. Looking for recommendations on a good T square that is actually square, and is thick enough and strong enough to be clamped and used as a fence for my jigsaw. Been on the B&Q website and...

Pretty sure we're looking at a rafter. Joists are the horizontal ones under your feet.

I chose to try and plane the edges of my attic trapdoor, after I cut it down to size and added hinges, as per the instructions of the attic ladder that I got from B&Q, and now it's a bit wavy since I didn't secure the workpiece, I bought a really cheap block plane, and I'm a buffoon. I can make...

Appears to just be a single MCB for the Lights. If you zoom in on the very bottom right, under the main switch, it says "CIRCUITS NOT RCD PROTECTED".

Again; I'd really need an explanation as to why I would disobey the manufacturer's advice...

Acceptable in what regard...? If I'm going to disregard what it says in the manual, I need to know exactly on what grounds I'm doing it. The existing wiring is just standard ceiling rose wiring.

It will be when I put additional wood between the joists, in rooms where it's necessary. That much was obvious to me. It weighs about 5kg.

On the motor housing it says "38W (Fan) 18W (LED Light)" On the base / mounting plate it just has simple Live, Earth, and Neutral terminals, that run to a push-fit connector that connects to the main motor housing. Nothing special or complicated. (in my novice opinion) I don't think there's...

OK, but do I actually need one, or are they just being over-cautious in the manual by recommending such a thing? My understanding is that as a DIY'er I'm not allowed to touch the 'consumer unit', and I'd need a qualified electrician to put such a thing in. If I do need one, how do I know how...

I just bought this ceiling fan with remote from Amazon on a Black Friday deal, on the assumption that I could just wire it into the light circuit and use the normal light switch. Let me quote from the manual though: Safety Precautions 6. Do not connect the fan's power supply to any dimmers...

This is everything that I can see in the hot press area:

Sorry, I thought that it was obvious from the picture that it was just one of those things that fits over your taps, from Croydex: https://www.croydex.co.uk/product-7.html Since it's so basic I thought it very unlikely to be the problem. It has a good seal around the taps and there's no...

Wouldn't that be the obvious theory...? The question is why, what is causing the problem, etc. And what's the relevance of what material my cylinder is made from?

Well I only tried the hot since that is potentially the problem here. How could the cold flow be the problem, if it's the hot water that is struggling to come out of the shower hose...?

No I can't "hold back the flow", clearly there's still pressure there. It just spurts everywhere, as you might expect.

It appears to be some kind of foam. Had it 20 years.

Yes I do. I'd say it's turqoise. If I perform the test you suggested on the bathroom sink, I'm concerned that the top might blow off this tap... Water already leaks from the corroded area when I run it. The top is wobbly.

I put "shower" in quotation marks because all I have is one of the cheapy abominations pictured below. Seems like about a month ago, all of a sudden, I couldn't turn the cold tap to where I would usually turn it, if I wanted to actually get some hot water out of the shower head. If I want to...

Go look closer for what exactly...? If you zoom in really close on that bottom picture, it looks to have these shiny particles in it.

Fresh looking plaster (even though it might be from 20 years ago) cracking to reveal a strange textured substance beneath which has also cracked. Looks very suspect to me.