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Thanks for your reply. So the 2.5mm flex is adequate for the 3.5kw without taking into account diversity. With regards to the 6kw induction hob, would you advise leaving the 2.5mm flex or upgrading to 4mm flex? I'm concerned the 2.5mm cable may overload if all 4 rings are on at the same time...

Hello all, I'm replacing a gas oven and hob for an electric oven and induction hob. It will have it's own dedicated 32A cooker circuit which is wired in 6mm cable that leads to a double pole cooker switch with socket, which then leads to a cooker hardwire outlet. My new oven is 3.5kw, my new hob...

Haha, there's 2 x 5A lighting circuits (upstairs & downstairs)

Yeah so cable in, cable out, spur = 3 cables. There's 4 cables, the spur cable, one cable coming in the left of the backbox and 2 cables coming in from the top right of the backbox

The wire you see going under the tiles goes to the double socket below. I'm assuming this was originally a single socket outlet on the ring main which has been removed when the kitchen cabinet was installed. They then spurred to the double socket under the tiles. I just don't know why there is...

It's definitely on the to do list this year that's for sure.

Renovating my kitchen in my new house. Removed a wall cabinet in the kitchen to find this absolute mess. Now besides the obvious duct tape, lack of face plate, connector blocks, and ignorance of zones, what am I looking at here? The property has 5 circuits: 30A socket circuit 30A Cooker...

Thanks for the help. I'm hoping mine looks like this as it is an old MK outlet from 1980's.

Sorry maybe I wasn't clear. I mean how will I swap the internal bit you have pictured on the right. Is it just screwed in or will I need to cut/dig into the wall

I want to change my gas oven and hob for an electric oven and hob. I have a 32A MCB for the cooker circuit which goes to a 45A double pole cooker switch which then goes to a cooker connection unit as shown in the picture. I am having the gas pipe capped off this weekend and will be hardwiring...

One Window at the back and 2 window wide at the front. When the soffits and fascia were replaced, eaves trays were fitted so I imagine this won't be the issue? That's an excellent suggestion regarding next doors felt. They have the original asbestos soffits and timber fascias so their felt...

Roof ridge tiles were repointed when the soffits were done. 3 roof tiles were also replaced during this as the roofer saw they were cracked. So id like to think theres not any more damaged tiles. As mentioned above, "I'm thinking the issue is condensation around the window reveal. The issue...

I used a reputable company so I can only guess they installed correctly. It is a semi detached property the entire perimeter of the roof had soffit and fascias changed. You can see the neighbours old fascia/soffits to the right. I'm thinking the issue is condensation around the window reveal...

The old fascias and soffits were removed and replaced. They weren't capped over. This issue was happening prior to the fascias and soffits being replaced.

What could be causing this damp around my window reveal and on the wall above the window? We noticed the window reveals had signs of damp when we bought the house and the survey suggested replacing the window. We have had the window replaced 8 months ago, had new soffits, fascia and guttering...

What would be the easiest way to install dry verge caps onto my small porch? Do I need to remove the mortar or can I just fix them directly onto the mortar as it's mainly for aesthetic purposes.

I'm planning on having the roof ridges replaced with a dry ridge system and have dry verge caps installed. I would like to also have the soffits, facia and guttering replaced during this time too. The fascia is timber by the looks of it however the soffits maybe asbestos. The home survey prior...

Do you know if I buy a replacement back up battery, and remove the control panel cover and replace the battery, will I need an engineer's code or will my user code he sufficient?