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We put LED strip in our new kitchen here back in 2019 and still really happy with it. It’s stuck to the back of the pelmet at the front facing down and lights up the worktop very well.

Separate supplies to the flat in the first pic then so no contractor. As already mentioned, need the full shot following meter change to see what’s happening with those connections at the bottom right.

Flats often use contacters to avoid running two supplies from the meter cupboard to each flat. The contacter signals the storage heater circuits to come on when the meter changes to off peak. If there is a contactor, then there’s a few things to check here. There’s usually a small circuit to...

Have the sockets ever worked? If they have worked but have since stopped working, did anything change, i.e. putting pictures up, shelves up? From your description you do need a spark but it would be good to be prepared with some answers to the questions they may ask you. How confident are you...

I once had a class II vacuum cleaner where the flex had frayed at the cord grip in the plug. Was using it one day and the RCD tripped after the vacuum stopped/started a few times when wriggling the flex around. Rewired the plug after chopping off the dodgy bit of flex and it never happened...

@dmbeez nice one. Thanks for coming back to let us know.

Cheers @SUNRAY, looks like we’re thinking along the same lines and you’ve added some clarifications. Be interesting to see if we’re right. Still can’t work out why the first electrician couldn’t figure this out, it’s fairly straightforward (if indeed our assumptions are correct).

Surface mount is no longer surface mount if you cover it with splashback. Concealing cables outside of safe zones is a foolish thing to do.

With the current arrangement it doesn’t look like you have a neutral at the switch. Before trying to put wires in places you need to confirm that the three core does indeed go directly from the switch to the light, however it strongly looks like it does. You really need to mark up the wires with...

It looks to me as if the 3 core has been used to get a neutral down to the switch along with a switched live. @dmbeez do you have a multimeter?

I guess the receiver is broken? In which case, my money is on a component in the receiver failing, stopping the boiler working and also causing the scorching you see.

Yes I believe so. As I say, it was done before I lived here so it was just one of the many bits of paper we got when we bought the house. I’ll try and dig it out.

This is exactly what British Gas had done in the house that we bought. They even issued an EIC for it. In practice it didn’t cause any issues of course, not least because the socket they spurred from was never used as it was directly under the boiler.

I’ve just done the exact same swap as my Drayton also packed in. Two weeks into the Nest and I’m really happy with it. Bought the official stand with included power cable and using the thermostat wirelessly. Took me less than 10 mins to install. Make sure you ensure electrics are safely...

I find the Hager Sollysta and MK to be a “reasonable enough” match. Click Mode for anything out of view though these days as I like the quality and price.

The black barrel type connector is meant to connect to the fibre distribution point on the telegraph pole. You shouldn’t do anything with the fibre side of this yourself. You need a new installation or the existing installation fixed by Openreach (or whoever the network provider is, but it...

I’ve had a 2.5mm radial circuit protected by a 20A MCB feeding my 6kw hob for 3+ years now and it’s never tripped. Even with all 4 rings on full.

Hi, Found this thread via google, so to help anyone else who comes across this, in my case it was the magnetron that needed replacing, part number 12006667. As per RandomGrinch - the insides of microwaves are not places to be messing around with, so do as I did and get it repaired via...