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Sorry guys been a tough month just getting round to doing this - I thought of another option for fitting all of the cables - using a 47mm deep plastic backbox in the ceiling!? https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-dry-lining-knockout-box-47mm/83270

Oh the fitting is a right pain, it comes in in the middle of the fitting but there's no room for anything. Hoping to resume over the weekend. I'm actually thinking to myself now how to make it a 3 way, for a future project. Maybe it can't be done, these led timers are limited, will fiddle about...

I found this https://www.screwfix.ie/p/appleby-1-gang-dry-lining-circular-knockout-box-35mm/90517 maybe can drill out with a holesaw and fit everything into it, then the fitting over the top, basically a circular wago box !

Thanks chaps don't know what to do with the cables now. Sunray I don't think it would fit in the fitting, it's a cheapy flush fitting from B&Q Maybe I should install a backbox next to the joist and a blank plate on the front. Ugly looking though.

I used one of these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/elkay-4-f-power-factor-correction-capacitor/1373g But now it looks like this.. is it ok to leave the capacitor in the void? With all connections well taped?

I like your drawing skills FrodoOne! So, it worked!!! I had to use a PFCC capacitor the ceiling rose though, between the switched live and neutral.. so right now it's sticking out of the ceiling just hanging... I will need to either tape it all up and push into the void (maybe a bad idea), or...

When Switch 1 is on, and someone presses the switch at Switch 2 (where the light is on), the live would be switched back to Switch 1 in addition, creating a loop? I thought that might risk a short of some sort.. I'm thinking of illogical usage, like a child hitting it repeatedly even though the...

Ok, I've made a bit of a mess of my hall lighting. When we come in the front door at night, it is pitch black. So I bought two of these LED timers off Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/illuminated-switch-rundown-12sec-12min-adjustable/dp/B01M25SSAI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 - which...

That looks like a great system, thanks JameZZ. I could site it up high in the hallway. It runs off 12v, so I'd need to bring a 2.5mmsq spur to it, then I presume it downrates the power inside it for the cabling to the keypad/ lock/ exit button.. do you know what size cable that would be, 0.5mm...

Hello Everyone, We have been considering installing an inside door in the hall to help with reducing road traffic noise. It has me considering increasing the security as sadly there have been attempts on the main door in the past (nailbar marks)... In the past, I recall working with an...

Blown away by the level of knowledge you guys have :)

Eek. We will need to get saving! Full board replacement =couple of grand when I last heard :( Really useful to know what MCBs will fit it though. Just a thought, couldn't they just replace the din rail with one from another up to date board ? Thanks for the info, I will put Sneider on the list...

West Midlands! Anything's possible up here :) We are in about 7 years, never had anything done with it. Probably needs a full going over but hopefully not a replacement!

Thanks Sunray, no we've decided it's too much mess for the minute. Yep for sure nice to understand what's happening with the board and although I have some confidence after many years, I value the house insurance too much! Future proofing in mind two radials would be best I think, but splitting...

I suppose everything is bigger in America! So it looks like some of the appliances could be moved on to a new 20A there, hopefully stress free. FrodoOne, are you sure it would need to be a RCBO? Wouldn't a usual Type B single pole suffice.

As promised. There's no room for another B20 on the top rail unless the busbar was extended.

Maybe the Fridge and / or boiler could be put on to the immersion circuit - it draws approx 12.4A (a 2.85kw element) through 2.5mmsq protected by a 20A, so there would appear to be room for it - but does this go against regs? They are all fixed permanent devices with switched isolator units, if...

Away now until next week, from memory they're all General Electric, box included

No I can't see it unless a lot of big electric heaters plugged in at the same time. With diversity in mind also it would be just fine. The existing 63A should be fine then, I was thinking about overcurrent protection rather than residual.. think that would be an RCBO not a RCD.

That seems like a great idea. There are currently 5x B20s protected by a 63A RCD so I could ask to have one upgraded. It's not much, should handle it. Also a great idea, pushing it though unless changing out the 63A RCD for a 80? A 25A swap for the 20A might be easiest (and cheapest!).