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Permitted Development is doing it properly. It is intended for the very purpose of allowing people to avoid needing to apply for planning permission.

If the opening is blocked up, the arch is supported, so won't need any other work other than pointing up. However you may want to check why the arch has dropped in the first place - has the wall to the left moved sideways? Yes, you can inset the brickwork. Use fishtail ties or wall starters.

Detached = "not joined" for building regs, so any dimension. For planning some authorities may try and additionally impose "not look like it's joined", and ask for an arbitrary dimension.

Combi frame

Yes as JD says above. More detail is required. You do not want to go randomly fitting vents, or doing anything really until you have properly identified the problem you are trying to remedy.

No, weep vents are for a completely different purpose. First you need to define what is causing the "damp". Then you determine how to deal with it - if it is condensation related, then it may need lifestyle changes instead of or in addition to physical changes to the building.

Piece of slate then for the Crayola sharpening challenged

Use a wax crayon marker for wet saws. And make a timber holder for the block - you could even make one with a guide timber for halves. Guillotines are great for getting only one half out of a full block, and for breaking the corners off angled cuts.

The render needs to come off to see what's going on behind. It may be something to do with that parapet and water getting behind the render. There does not like like there is a very good or any drip on those coping stones.

If you had used the same bricks as below and squared off that bit of render, then you could have just left it and it would have looked OK and like it was meant to be. A white uPVC board would look a bit council- housey, and render would never match.

When you want a quote for work, it is you that should be telling the contractors what you want quoting for, not the contractors telling you what they want to do. Specify the required work and let the contractors quote for each item or a composite price, and then you know that you are getting...

Once brickwork gets saturated and the salts which cause efflorescence activated, the salts tend to remain active from the slightest humidity change, and can then reappear for years.

Rockwool won't comply with building regulations unless it's over 200mm thick. There should be no cavity and no voids when insulating internally.

It's not indicative of foundation movement, but that's not to say that is not related to structural cracking if the wall.

You wouldn't build a cavity wall unless a cavity wall is required. Solid wall and suitable insulation with supports for the units, or an internal timber frame with enhanced internal sheathing for the units.

You fix the window on one side, not three. For the other side, after plumbing the frame, you would add fixings and build them in as you build the jambs, not drill the frame afterwards.

It's a marathon, not a sprint. :p

You buy from a shop that sells on the site, and the goods come direct from the seller. IIRC (may be wrong) it's difficult to find who the seller is before purchase, but you get told who it is after purchase. I've bought from them no problem.

If it's an opening a opposed to a doorway, put the support up in the ceiling void and have all the joists on hangers and a flush ceiling. You don't need a wall plate in any case.

Just a thought, does it actually need fixing to the wall mid height? If it's secure top and bottom and plumb, then it will stiffen up when it's boarded and won't need intermediate fixing to the wall.