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I can now confirm that "sticks like" does indeed stick like the proverbial between primed stripwood and a zinc plated bracket.

Oh and to answer the question, the difference is night Vs day. Unbelievably loud though, and you need to be able to seal the space off.

Dehumidifier sounds like the wrong tool for the job if you have one very damp spot on one floorboard. You're basically sucking all the water out of the air so the air can suck all the water out of one spot. I suggest you point a fan heater at the wet spot for half an hour and take it from there.

But how will I repair my reputation?

I'll coat the face of the bracket, so 68mm x 10mm (less a few screw holes). 4 brackets. The glued side will be hidden. I believe sticks like is like CT1?

Cost of living and climate crises preclude such profligate behaviour

I thought a poll was the way to stop people naming adhesives that I don't already have. I guess I was wrong. Should have included super glue and pritt stick in the poll for completeness

If you can get the corefix out you could just stick a couple of decent 10mm plug in the holes... I used these for my TV...

For others arriving with the same question, I have learned that it is section 2.28 of Part J that he was observing, whereby combustible material placed on or beside a constructional hearth should not extend [snip] closer than 150mm measured horizontally to the appliance. I can however confirm...

I have a small internal job to do where I need to stick a thin strip of pine to a couple of zinc plated metal brackets (pine strip is too thin for a mechanical fixing). There won't be any load on the join besides the weight of the stripwood itself, so I'm pretty sure one of the adhesives I...

Me too

Perhaps if someone redecorates in the future, unaware of the HETAS installer's stipulation, they may well do that. They're green! Argh, I knew they'd look black. On the other hand I'm delighted you thought they were thin and set on the wood. I meticulously planned the levels to make they flush...

I find the suggestion that painted MDF skirting could ignite due to heat transference to be completely absurd, and yet the young guy who did the installation seemed utterly convinced that it was a genuine risk. The painful bit personally is that I fitted the skirting because I got impatient...

Tiny stove, and there's only about 10mm in it.

Yes but the skirting is higher than the legs. I spoke to the stove manufacturer and they said pretty much the same as big-all, i.e. it's up to the installer. I spoke to the boss and he's come up with 150mm either side of the stove instead of back to the hearth. No idea where he got that from but...

Is there any definitive interpretation of Part J regarding the proximity of skirting on the front of a chimney breast to a wood burning stove? I did my research, and concluded from section 2.18 and associated Diagram 21 that there was no minimum, with skirting shown "less than 200mm". My HETAS...

I did describe it as a "massive great steel". 5.4m span. It's approx. 10mm I section with a 10mm plate welded on the bottom. Probably over specified tbh, like everything else the SE did. There's only about 3 courses of bricks above it, then a flat roof.

Cut off best, bend back adequate. I like the idea of mole grips, then inching down the length. I could clamp the bit adjacent to the bend between two longer strips of wood to prevent the torque from deforming the rest of the piece.

I fitted my 6'x4' gym mirrors to a brick wall with j channels. I was also worried about the slight rattling and potential damage if banged with an elbow or barbell, so I damped it by padding the void with some thin spongy foam packing material I took from the bin at work. Draft excluder strips...

I've got this roller blind cassette from a botched order that I want to repurpose as a cover for the mechanism above a sliding door. I need to remove, or bend back, the circled bit that sits proud. Any ideas how I could do that? It's aluminium I think so should be pretty soft, though it doesn't...