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Thanks for the replies can i use this without the gateway to control the light via an app? https://www.screwfix.com/p/energenie-mihome-1-gang-1-way-light-switch-brushed-stainless-steel/9317h#product_additional_details_container

Thinking of fitting a wifi light switch but the original one only has the t&e and the wifi asks for a live neutral. it runs through metal conduit would i be able to run a single wire up the conduit to the ceiling rose live? please no smart arse comments

Thanks for all the help got the council coming round to check things out for me.

moved into a council house where the 32amp cooker switch is on the wall to one side of cooker opening which leads to a 3 pin socket behind where the cooker is going. My question is would it be ok to wire a 13amp plug to the cable thats comes from the cooker to the 3 pin socket. As the socket is...

i have a consumer unit in a garage and have a shed about 15" from the garage and want to install power to it already have the lights and sockets all ready to be powered off a new consumer unit in the shed can anyone tell me the best way ie what cable should i use to get power from the garage...

sorry mate i miss read your post i see where you are coming from with the brass sleeve removal will have a look tomorrow cheers mate

you are correct there are inner splines but these arnt used the tap handle attaches to a screw which is screwed through the tap cap into the cartridge as you can see in the photo the dimple which the screw locates

i have a caple filter tap and the tap has started dripping i have looked for a replacement cartridge with no luck they all seem to have splines at the end which mine don't have also mine has a spacer half way along. Anyone have any advice?

thanks for clearing that up mate :)

hi I'm thinking of changing my thermostat running off a Worcester combi but the wiring has me a bit puzzled the new one has only 2 wires but the one I'm taking off has 4 please see pics replacement>> wiring diagram for exsisting>>> exsisting>>>> anyone know how the wiring is supposed to...

cheers mate give me something to do "box building "

the transformers are screwed to the rafter along with which are also to the rafterhttp://www.diy.com/nav/fix/electrical/switches-sockets/junction-mounting-boxes/junction_boxes/MK-3-Terminal-Junction-Box-Brown-30-Amp-9289783 which is also to the rafter

they are linked to each other using supplied cable to the transformer then t&e to the junction box which is about 24' from the actual lights

when i have boxed them in i was going to put a few holes in the top to let the heat out hese are the lights i'm using...

so you say it was'nt a childish answer then you say " here to get childish answers" make your mind up i have plenty of time to do things which has nothing to do with what was asked i guess you are know as mr wright as you always have to be right[/b]

thanks for the reply mate this is the answer i was looking for not the childish answer of use candles

10 watts each and have 4 in each room and the heat loss it what i trying to stop as i said in the first post

trying to find a cheap way like i said so why would buying more lights to replace the ones i have help out

cheers for the link mate was looking for a cheap way as i have 30 to cover

i have put 10 ceiling lights across the top of the stairs but as i could'nt put the loft insulation over the lights i just left them uncovered. now its getting a bit nippy you can feel the chill across the landing is there anything i could put down to stop the heat escaping or cover the lights...