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a better plunge saw is comming from Festool or from another manufacturer? please tell more :)

why not place battens inside the cupboards and fix the (trimmed) back plattes to these instead of the gooves provided, this will then give you a bit of space to hide the pipework

unless you isolate your floor from your joists then packing between the joists will have little effect as the sound will still travel through the structure. There are two ways of deadening sound - through a large mass or through isolation. A large mass is not possible so you need to isolate...

Hi Thanks for the replies :) My dg supplier told me it does not matter. As the units are to go in to 'handed' arches I wanted to make sure that what they told me is correct. Also how do I tell that the glass actually has a coating as there were no stickers on the glass and no...

I am getting some double glazed units made up to fit in to my old wooden windows. Basically they are 6,3mm acoustic glass, 8mm argon gas, 4mm glass with a reflective coating (similar to K glass but by sancobain) Now does it matter in what direction the windows are fitted? the supplier says...

what you need is this stuff http://www.holkham.co.uk/linseedpaints/ it takes some preperation on the first application but you have done the hard bit of stripping off the old paint, so the rest is just applying the new. Once on all you need to do is apply some warmed Holkam linseed oil...

don't you think it is strange that I could invent a cure for cancer or an endless supply or green energy and yet I could only protect that invention and profit from it for 25 years through a patent, even though the implications for greater mankind would be huge, and yet someone singing about a...

another vote for the very capable 708 here

Mine is the DeWalt stand, and with this the saw just clips on and off (using the two black hand grips at the front bottom of the saw). Total time to open it out and mount the saw = less than 2 minutes (maybe even half that) and the same for taking it apart

I have the De Walt 708 with the stand and I have to say that the stand is a great piece of kit. First of all the mitre saw is a pretty dangerous piece of kit and using the stand means you are in a much more comfortable position and no fears of anything dangling in to the blade. Secondly...

Looks like a complete bodge to me! They shouldnt have come on to your property (picky maybe but where do you stop with such things) and as you said you are going to be the one who has to deal with any problems at a later date. Certainly does not look like it will last the test of time and if...

I have lined my roof space with plasterboard. It was originally my intention to skim the joints and screw heads and paint it as it was, so therefore I fixed them with the 'smooth' side out (green side actually as they are waterproof boards). However I have since thought that I would like to have...

I know that here in Belgium you can get your woodwork sandblasted. Not had it done myself but have seen the results (on a staircase) and they were very impressive. They will also do doors and mouldings. Only problem is with the mess so best to get it done on an empty house Dipping does a good...

of course you can get exactly the same effect using plain copper jounts, a roll of solder, flux and a blowtorch. The joints will be much cheaper than the yorkshire ones and it is very easy to make a good joint

could also be that they just used plasterboard and skimmed the joints and any screw/nail heads rather than plastering the whole lot. I have this on one of my walls and in certain sunlight it stands out a mile as you can see the ridges where the joints were skimmed

you could use a floorboard saw...but then that would probably cost more than the £10 jugsaw. Alternatively you can get a small saw blade that fits in to a stanley knife and is great for such things (just need to drill a hole to start off)

why not use a square, set the piece you want to use against it and use this as a guide for the bit you actually want to cut. you can then set the mitre saw at 40° and using this set up you can get 50° (90°-40°) I hope you can visualise it

only if anyone knew about it....

I just bought a Bosch 14.4V 'professional' model (blue with aluminium 'nose' and red details) I cant remember the model number but it is a really great piece of kit. I have drilled through everything (not specifically lintels but concrete) and I really cant fault it.

I know you are supposed to water down the first coat as the plaster sucks the moisture out of the paint before it can dry at its own 'pace' this means that the paint does not adhere to the plaster correctly (it dried to quickly) and it will flake off as you described