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Getting to the stage of fixing (still to order) Celotex TD4126 to the ply deck on my flat roof. How do you attach the facia boards to the edge of insulation board this thick? Would it be a case of just fixing the board to the joist ends/sides below it or should it be contained in a timber...

You're reading it right. :) Facia not on yet and took the precaution of cutting to size but not fixing the front of the deck until I could get some advice, so thanks for that. The cavity (not much because it's all patio door and window) is empty. I could wedge some spare Kingspan I've got...

Not sure how you can see that there but you're right...the patio is a bit higher than it should be. It's next on the list so I'll take it down when I redo it. Cavity 75mm requested by BCO between lightweight blocks (100mm for anything else). Was gonna use heavier blocks on the outside but...

BCO have decided to supervise my much needed flat roof renovation (replacing wall so this is the time) and have added it. I've fitted a new pylwood deck and will be fixing Celotex TD4126 to it before roofer nephew does the honours. :) My question concerns what to put in the facia and...

OK..Wall starter it is, thanks. Dann. Thanks for taking the time to reply. This is a single story extension having a 'crooked' wall replaced by a straight one. Building control have supervised it from the beginning. Footings, pouring, blocks to damp course.....then said OK to build...

Thanks Dann, it's all being done under BCO supervision. Basically, the edge of the floorboards marks the original wall( :shock: ) and the blockwork is the new position. The pebbldashed corner nearest in the first pic has a wall starter on it. My biggest concern is joining the blocks to the red...

Hello. Is a wall starter the best option for this? I've knocked down the strange angled (think parallelogram) side wall on my kitchen extension(brick/block) and I'm replacing it with a (square) thermalite wall. At one end a wall starter seems the only option but at the other end I think I...

Wall plate at one end of wall.

Two courses to dpc.

Loose laid blocks, one with cut out to tooth in?

There's the space between the plasterboard and the roofing board fitted top and bottom of the joists. The warm roof insulation and capping is on top of that without air gaps. I take it that's what you mean, so no-one is on drugs in this instant.

No indicator lights ......NO nothing. Power traced to switch..........via safety interlock....all the way to the programmer. I'm assuming it's the programmer. Suggestions? Thanks Chaps. :?

Thanks mate, I'll do that.

Hello People! Anyone know where I can get a "Haynes" style workshop manual from as they don't seem to make one. :roll:

Thanks Lads. All working fine. Dead curious to know what speed the pump runs at without speed adjustment though.

Thanks for the help. Air lock seemed to be the problem. Reverse filled the system and whilst it was drained, checked and replaced the downstairs TRV's ......All OK now. Suspect replacing the TRV's solved the problem and I could have refilled normally but I'm not about to refill normally just...

That' ll be awkward......It's an Ideal Standard WRS Boiler with the pump in ths boiler cabinet........limited access. The pump doesn't look like most you show (old concord pump). Cast pump casing with vents either side. How come it's still running?

When I attempted to alter my pump speed (late 70's Concord), the speed control fell to bits.....not sure if it was already like it. What I want to know is, as my pump is still running, what speed is it running at? Is there some sort of default setting? : :?

I would be interested to now what this turns out to be