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Sorry kingandy2nd. I am sorry I didnt read the forum properly DOH!!!! I havent been on here for a while so I apologise for being a prat!!!!!

I have tiled over worse walls than that and done a good job! No need spending money when it's not needed..

I would follow Bonni's advice...

Just take all the rough edges off with a scraper and spread it with the adhesive and a good knotched trowel and you should be ok to tile on it.I would suggest a bigger knotched trowel and that should make up for any irregular areas.The walls look quite flat.. Get a long straight edge and put it...

I don't think the stone work is good enough for a feature. But you could rake the mortar out a little and it should show the stone work a bit better.

I would spread over it with tile adhesive and fill the holes no need to lay it on the main wall too thick, then leave it for a few days then tile onto it,, I would get a tub of Bal Blue Star adhesive, it's expensive but it's the best!!!

It looks like textured paint,If so just scrap all the loose stuff off and give it a wire brushing then paint some PVA or SBR (4-1) over it, and when it is tacky, mix some sand and cement (and lime) if you want,(you could put a drop of your PVA in the mix and wet up your s/cement mix so it is...

I recently skimmed a ceiling with a light artex pattern on it. It was curved on the sides and was quite big. So I went over it with a roller of "Unibond" (3-1) and let it pick up a bit (tacky), Then I went over it with a watered down Unibond (4-1 mix), And I had no problem with suction and it...

I would get an electric sander and sand the plaster down so it is level with existing plaster then silicon the back of the skirting and press it home flush..

No concrete wont do the job!! You will have to knock all the old render off and mesh it to hold back any cracks. not a novice's job really. Get a few quotes off a few plasterers that could tackle this kind of job...

You will be better off using stainless steel mesh then no probs with rust showing thru later...Also use either s/steel angle beads or plastic ones..

I would use poly backed plaster board...

You can put a scoop of lime in your mixes but if you don't address the cracks and leave what's on there then they will come back and bite you!! The way I have told you how to do is the correct way! Your choice!!

You are better to knock off all the old render, then put expanding metal all the way around it (Should be able to knock galvanised 3 inch nails into the brick joints to hold mesh on). Put a scratch coat on it, (4-1 mix with plasterciser for first coat) then put angle beads on the corners then...

Any cracks in render should be addressed as Steve said, if water gets in and freezes then it could "blow" the dash off!! You could grind down either side of the crack and fit an expansion joint and match it in with the rest of the dash!! I don't know whether they chased the brick work out and...

I you are going to tile over your plastering then there should be no problem within your wall. I would use a 4-5 sand and cement with 1 lime, dub the wall out first with a scratch coat, You could wet your wall then throw the first coat on the wall to fill a few of the "dips out and leave it for...

You could also have a hose pipe up there and spray it as you knock it off !!!

You must be one of the lucky ones John..;)

One of the reasons to wet it is to keep the "dust" down I would rather clean up the wet mess than mask up and have the dust all over the place. Old lime dust is not too good for you aswell,,,

I think it is the texture of the bonding that is the problem as opposed to the smooth texture of plaster...It is more likely to send the tile adhesive off quicker than plaster..