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I have fitted elka solid many times before and something that elka states both on the fitting instructions and on there website is that solid hardwood floors should never be fitted floating. I would take up the hardboard and fit ply screwed at 300mm centres, then I would secret nail or glue...

depends on the amount of use it gets also it does not always add value to your house laminate is very hard wearing engineered is not scratches very easily

have a look at your local flooring centre at the quickstep range they do what is called an inziso strip it is done in every colour in the ranges

why did you not just take the plinths of then put floor under then trim the plinths to size also use a nailer to attach the beading to the plinths

the easiest rule of thumb is a 10mm gap all the way around even through door ways b&q say them sizes so that if the floor does blow they ask if you went to there instructions if not then they wont sort it as for edging either use the matching scotia or go for white

laminate is alot more hard wearing but i would not get it from screwfix your local shop will sell it alot cheaper and depending on your budget get the best you can afford personally I think that the quick step range is the biggest and best

try at any flooring shop but personally i would go for primed mdf from a timber yard then gloss it as you will get a better looking skirting

you will find that the floor is made up from chipboard glued together to form a big sheet underneath would be polystyrene that is why it is called a floating floor

I think alot depends on where in the country you are but up in yorkshire we charge between £8.00 - £10.00 a metre depending on the size of the rooms

yes it does the joists are done the same way

all pretreated decking is pressure treated so that you don't need to paint the ends of the boards as the treatment is forced into the boards at very high pressure so it goes all the way through the boards

the easiest way would be to take the legs off the units as they should be screwed to the wall then screed the whole floor with a flexi screed and level it up that way

what the problem sounds like to me is that under floor is not level it runs of at that point did you check the floor prior to laying the floor or the boards are cupped the problem you get with cheaper end products

I am no proffessional when it comes to varnish but I think the problem is that the floor varnish that you used is a water based product and as soon as the water gets on it it causes a reaction I would personally sand it back down then stain again then apply yacht varnish thats only my opinion

when fitting engineered floors that are glued on the t & g you need to used straps strap them up then using a tapping block and hammer tap the boards together the tension in the straps should help to pull the floor together

no get an old saw and a scrap piece of board then cut the door frames so that the flooring will slide under the door frame looks much neater

yes I would

When ever I lay a floor I tend to go with the light eg the light comes from window, french doors so i would go from a to b on your diagram also if it is to high when you get to the tiles just plane the wood done as a ramp to the tiles and use a coloured sealant to file between the tiles and wood

why not go for the lagune range of quick step flooring it comes with a rubber strip to fit with the floor so it is designed to be for areas where water is also get advice for laminate or wood from a wood retailer as they know what is best, carpet shops tend to as the name suggest specialize in...

the way your are talking the difference in height is abot 100mm 75mm for the timber and 22mm for the solid oak the screed sould be atleast 100mm thick so if you want drill and plug the floor then screw the batons down I dont see a problem