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I went over yesterday to test the white wire as suggested to see if I could isolate the problem. Before I did that I undid the big shiny round screw on the pump and some water came out - only enough to wet about a handspan on the floor then I put it back in. Next I took the case off the 3...

I'll be over there again either this afternoon or tomorrow so will try this if for no other reason than I'm stuck lol. The boiler doesn't fire up at all with just the CH on which is different to your issue but as I say I'm willing to try anything. I didn't think a pump would work without it...

The boiler won't fire up at all with just the CH on, even after draining the system. Switch on the HW and bingo it fires up fine with a lovely clean blue flame. The pump temperature is like a hot plate in a carvery. I find it hot to touch but everyone else carries them fine. I figure...

Is there any way to check if it is a non switching issue? I'm assuming the slider on it that can go from the left (where it says Auto) to the middle (no writing) to the right (where it says Man something) will have no bearing if a switch inside is not working.

Could this be an air blockage vcausing the problem or woud the boiler fire up for the CH even if it had a blockage?

The diverter valve is over to the left normally. If I move it to the right manually and fiddle with the thermostat it moves back to the left by itself. The main CH thermostat is turned all the way up to 30. The one on the new radiator is set to 5.

Hi, I removed an old radiator (was tiling my cousin's bathroom) and replaced it with a new one. Now there's no central heating. Boiler is a Baxi (no model details on the front) Pump is a Grundfos one (gets hot to touch) also has a Honeywell sundial Y plan 3 position diverter valve When...