ALPHA CB 24/28 NO HOT WATER AND LOSING PRESSURE....FIXED!

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ALPHA CB 24/28 BOILER.

Hi all,

I had some trouble with my Alpha cb24/28 boiler over the past few months, firstly the boiler lost pressure when the heating was switched off and we had to refill it using the water fill loop before switching the heating back on,it was then usually ok for the rest of the day until we switched the heating off and again it would then empty!
We also had an issue with the hot water in as much as it stopped working altogether a few months ago, no sad loss as we only shower and have a dishwasher so no real need for tapped hot water.

I had a plumber round a couple of weeks ago and he told me the pressure vessel had gone along with a pressure release valve and it would cost me £350+ to put it all right or he could fit a new boiler for £1100.

Well I pondered this over and thought I would do some searches of the net for this problem,one such search brought me here which gave me some pointers as to what the real problem was, so thanks guys wether from this site or the others!
I will give a brief run down of what was happening and then how I fixed it!

THE CAUSE.

1. No hot water (got worse over weeks then none at all).
2. Central heating boiler would only hold pressure when the heating was switched on and running.

THE FIX.

1. Purchase a DHW diaphragm kit from any good merchant, PART No(ALPHA 3.013389). I paid £31 for one but you can get them slightly cheaper.

HOW TO FIX.

Turn your mains power to the boiler off, turn your cold water supply off at the mains.

Remove the two self tapping screws from the front panel and the front panel will drop down (still attached!) revealing the pipework etc underneath the boiler.

Place a bowl underneath the boiler to catch any dribbles of water you may get.
You will see a small red knob at the front, turn/push this and it will empty the pressure from the boiler.

To the right of the boiler you will see the pump, there are two pipes coming from it, one on top and one bottom,firstly completely undo the top pipe (large adjustable spanner!),when the top pipe is fully undone then undo the bottom pipe, there should be a little water escaping but not torrents just whats left in the pump.

Carefully remove the pump to the outside of the boiler and out of the way,leaving the electrical wire attached.

To the left of where the pump was situated you will see the DHW flow valve, again this has two pipes going into it,one pipe in the top and one in the bottom. The valve is in two parts and is screwed together with 4 cross head screws, you are going to remove the side of the valve closest to where the pump sits!

The top pipe goes into the DHW heat exchanger, undo the top pipe completely. Now remove the four cross head screws from the DHW valve.

Remove the half of the DHW flow valve casing you have unscrewed, you will find a rubber diaphragm and large spring inside, on inspection the diaphragm will be perished with holes in it? .

In the kit you brought there will be loads of washers etc and a tube of liquid grease, clean all the seated areas of the DHW valve up, liberally,grease both sides of the valve up and the diaphragm where it will sit on the valve.
Carefully replace the new diaphragm into the situated side of the valve and replace (not forgetting the large spring!!) the opposite casing you removed, when you have seated the valve halves together then replace the four crosshead screws you removed, as the valve is sprung loaded then tighten the screws up alternately making sure the two halves of the valve go back together evenly and fully.

Ok, thats the DHW valve back together and about to work as it should again.

Reconnect the top pipe to the DHW valve and tighten, I used new fiber washers (1 of) when replacing the DHW pipe and the pump pipes which can be brought as a kit when you buy the diaphragm for £10, they looked ok but I replaced them any way!

Refit your pump in reverse to how you took it off, again using new fiber washers (2 off).

Thats it basically, refill the boiler with the fill loop until the pressure is in the green (after first turning your mains water back on!).
Try your hot water, turn all the hot taps on firstly to bleed any air through then just wait for hot water to come through.

PRESSURE KEEPS DROPPING.....read on.....

Locate your pressure vessel, which like mine maybe at the top rear of my boiler, it has a valve on top of it pretty much the same as the one on a car wheel.......
........turn the heating off and wait for it to be stone cold, taking a car foot pump, fit it to the valve and pump 0.8 bar into it in total! I pressed the valve firstly and emptied it before starting, I also used a digital car tyre type pressure gauge to check for the correct pressure as they read in bar as well as psi.

ok with the pressure up to 0.8 bar, take a look at your pressure gauge at the front of the boiler, it should be reading somewhere in the green segment, if it is higher then simply, gently turn/press the red knob (front of boiler) until it reads in the green.

That's it!!
very long winded explanation I know but if you print it out and follow then if your problems are the same as what mine were this will fix it for less than £40.

I am not an engineer and only moderately handy with tools and the whole job took me approximately 1 hour to complete with no prior plumbing experience etc!

Let me know if it helped!
Regards,
Paul
 
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ALPHA CB 24/28 BOILER.

Hi all,

I had some trouble with my Alpha cb24/28 boiler over the past few months, firstly the boiler lost pressure when the heating was switched off and we had to refill it using the water fill loop before switching the heating back on,it was then usually ok for the rest of the day until we switched the heating off and again it would then empty!
We also had an issue with the hot water in as much as it stopped working altogether a few months ago, no sad loss as we only shower and have a dishwasher so no real need for tapped hot water.

I had a plumber round a couple of weeks ago and he told me the pressure vessel had gone along with a pressure release valve and it would cost me £350+ to put it all right or he could fit a new boiler for £1100.

Well I pondered this over and thought I would do some searches of the net for this problem,one such search brought me here which gave me some pointers as to what the real problem was, so thanks guys wether from this site or the others!
I will give a brief run down of what was happening and then how I fixed it!

THE CAUSE.

1. No hot water (got worse over weeks then none at all).
2. Central heating boiler would only hold pressure when the heating was switched on and running.

THE FIX.

1. Purchase a DHW diaphragm kit from any good merchant, PART No(ALPHA 3.013389). I paid £31 for one but you can get them slightly cheaper.

HOW TO FIX.

Turn your mains power to the boiler off, turn your cold water supply off at the mains.

Remove the two self tapping screws from the front panel and the front panel will drop down (still attached!) revealing the pipework etc underneath the boiler.

Place a bowl underneath the boiler to catch any dribbles of water you may get.
You will see a small red knob at the front, turn/push this and it will empty the pressure from the boiler.

To the right of the boiler you will see the pump, there are two pipes coming from it, one on top and one bottom,firstly completely undo the top pipe (large adjustable spanner!),when the top pipe is fully undone then undo the bottom pipe, there should be a little water escaping but not torrents just whats left in the pump.

Carefully remove the pump to the outside of the boiler and out of the way,leaving the electrical wire attached.

To the left of where the pump was situated you will see the DHW flow valve, again this has two pipes going into it,one pipe in the top and one in the bottom. The valve is in two parts and is screwed together with 4 cross head screws, you are going to remove the side of the valve closest to where the pump sits!

The top pipe goes into the DHW heat exchanger, undo the top pipe completely. Now remove the four cross head screws from the DHW valve.

Remove the half of the DHW flow valve casing you have unscrewed, you will find a rubber diaphragm and large spring inside, on inspection the diaphragm will be perished with holes in it? .

In the kit you brought there will be loads of washers etc and a tube of liquid grease, clean all the seated areas of the DHW valve up, liberally,grease both sides of the valve up and the diaphragm where it will sit on the valve.
Carefully replace the new diaphragm into the situated side of the valve and replace (not forgetting the large spring!!) the opposite casing you removed, when you have seated the valve halves together then replace the four crosshead screws you removed, as the valve is sprung loaded then tighten the screws up alternately making sure the two halves of the valve go back together evenly and fully.

Ok, thats the DHW valve back together and about to work as it should again.

Reconnect the top pipe to the DHW valve and tighten, I used new fiber washers (1 of) when replacing the DHW pipe and the pump pipes which can be brought as a kit when you buy the diaphragm for £10, they looked ok but I replaced them any way!

Refit your pump in reverse to how you took it off, again using new fiber washers (2 off).

Thats it basically, refill the boiler with the fill loop until the pressure is in the green (after first turning your mains water back on!).
Try your hot water, turn all the hot taps on firstly to bleed any air through then just wait for hot water to come through.

PRESSURE KEEPS DROPPING.....read on.....

Locate your pressure vessel, which like mine maybe at the top rear of my boiler, it has a valve on top of it pretty much the same as the one on a car wheel.......
........turn the heating off and wait for it to be stone cold, taking a car foot pump, fit it to the valve and pump 0.8 bar into it in total! I pressed the valve firstly and emptied it before starting, I also used a digital car tyre type pressure gauge to check for the correct pressure as they read in bar as well as psi.

ok with the pressure up to 0.8 bar, take a look at your pressure gauge at the front of the boiler, it should be reading somewhere in the green segment, if it is higher then simply, gently turn/press the red knob (front of boiler) until it reads in the green.

That's it!!
very long winded explanation I know but if you print it out and follow then if your problems are the same as what mine were this will fix it for less than £40.

I am not an engineer and only moderately handy with tools and the whole job took me approximately 1 hour to complete with no prior plumbing experience etc!

Let me know if it helped!
Regards,
Paul

forgot to mention that there are other reasons your heating/hot water are not working but with this boiler Alpha cb24/28 then these symptoms and the repair I have outlined are 95% common with this boiler and seem to happen approx every three years-ish, so it is a good place to start and easy enough to do yourself for £30 ish pounds (saving £300+!).
 
While efforts above are comendable, luck is there in bucketful as well. :cool:
 
Well done on taking that on, Id advise on keeping a bucket underneath it for a while, just incase.

Almost guaranteed that you will still get a leak from some of the o rings and the flow/returns if you have been disturbing the hydraulics.

And dont use the prv (red button) to release excess pressure, this can make it pass in future, only use these as a last resort, this boiler has a drain point underneath it. You can put a bucket underneath, drain and keep open, then pump vessel that way, you may get more water out with each pump you do. Best to use this for future reference.

These boilers always leak unfortunately.
When you get the boiler serviced, ask rgi to check the expansion vessel then.
 
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Well done on taking that on, Id advise on keeping a bucket underneath it for a while, just incase.

Almost guaranteed that you will still get a leak from some of the o rings and the flow/returns if you have been disturbing the hydraulics.

And dont use the prv (red button) to release excess pressure, this can make it pass in future, only use these as a last resort, this boiler has a drain point underneath it. You can put a bucket underneath, drain and keep open, then pump vessel that way, you may get more water out with each pump you do. Best to use this for future reference.

These boilers always leak unfortunately.
When you get the boiler serviced, ask rgi to check the expansion vessel then.
Hi and happy new year,

I did keep a bowl underneath it for a while after completing but I have ran the boiler up and down at varying temperatures and times quite a bit now and have no leaks at all, but I didnt really expect any other leaks other than from the 3 pipes I undid, I didnt touch anything else.

I am getting it serviced in a couple of weeks so will make the technician aware of my repair.
cheers,
 
While efforts above are comendable, luck is there in bucketful as well. :cool:

Hi,

I wouldn't really call it luck to be honest, I spent quite some time on this and other forums researching the problems I had,collated the information I gained and decided that because it seems 95% of the historical problems concerned with this make of boiler are caused by the DHW valve,then I would have a go at the repair myself as it looked and actually was very easy to do.
The only other real problem with this make of boiler is that it does from time to time lose pressure from the expansion tank if there is air in the system,something to do with the balance....it has been explained to me and I dont really understand but again like the advice/information I got from this and other forums, I rectified the problem and all is well.

In fact for an hours work and the good advice from past posts I got from here,I managed to save myself £1000 for a new boiler and at the least probably £400+ The nice boiler man quoted me for replacing two parts I did not actually need!
So thanks again to everyone who has contributed on the forums with this particular problem.
Happy new year.
 
While efforts above are comendable, luck is there in bucketful as well. :cool:

Hi,

I wouldn't really call it luck to be honest, I spent quite some time on this and other forums researching the problems I had,collated the information I gained and decided that because it seems 95% of the historical problems concerned with this make of boiler are caused by the DHW valve,then I would have a go at the repair myself as it looked and actually was very easy to do.
The only other real problem with this make of boiler is that it does from time to time lose pressure from the expansion tank if there is air in the system,something to do with the balance....it has been explained to me and I dont really understand but again like the advice/information I got from this and other forums, I rectified the problem and all is well.

In fact for an hours work and the good advice from past posts I got from here,I managed to save myself £1000 for a new boiler and at the least probably £400+ The nice boiler man quoted me for replacing two parts I did not actually need!
So thanks again to everyone who has contributed on the forums with this particular problem.
Happy new year.

id also describe it as a bit of luck but based on a educated guess. faults with dhw/leaking hydraulics are really common with this model of boiler. eg a really common fault is the dhw flow switch sticking which i would of tested before striping out the boiler to replace the diaphragm.
another tip is to check that the schrader valve is not passing after you have pumped up the vessel.
but its always good to hear wen advice has helped especially wen engineers over quote/mis diagnose a repair, well done
 
Well done mate. You've proved that 90% of fixes are DIY jobs. Just as well you didn't get an RGI in - he'd have changed the fan and charged you £500.
 
Joe, what if the fan cost £435.00, why would one not charge £500.00 for it?
 
Well done mate. You've proved that 90% of fixes are DIY jobs. Just as well you didn't get an RGI in - he'd have changed the fan and charged you £500.


yawn

give it up u sad man..

looking for a bite on NYD as you have nothing better to do.

The op wrote this to help people, if you have nothing constructive to say relating to the thread then just dont bother.
 
Well done mate. You've proved that 90% of fixes are DIY jobs. Just as well you didn't get an RGI in - he'd have changed the fan and charged you £500.


yawn

give it up u sad man..

looking for a bite on NYD as you have nothing better to do.

The op wrote this to help people, if you have nothing constructive to say relating to the thread then just dont bother.

I am sorry,
it seems I have rattled a cage with my posts, I really did only give the run down on a possible/likely repair because this particular problem seems endemic to this boiler type and from what I have read in all the previous research I did on here and the other forums, other people had the same symnptoms as my boiler was displaying and I wanted to help as it has cured those sooo many problems I was having with mine!
I would also like to add that the DHW valve I serviced correctly is a generic type and not only fitted to my boiler type....so how many more out there ????!!

I realize that I may have had a dig at the registered gas installers (actually 2 of them!!) but both, mis diagnosed the repair and were quite happy to take £400 ish off me to replace parts that were working ok, both gave very similar diagnosis and both offered me a new boiler (it is only 6 years old!) and, both were randomly chosen from the phone book! The repairs they were suggesting were within £100 of each other (£350 -£400+).
I am not really having a dig at the cost for the service they were offering and I fully appreciate the costs of being self employed!
If I were to have a problem then it would be (that I would have employed either /or both at different times)two registered gas fitting plumbers to replace parts that were not needed at a substantial cost to myself with no result after a major strip down, leaving me with the same problem! (one of which was an ALPHA service agent!!)

I am a Radiologist by trade (aerospace) and have no real past plumbing etc experience but having read all the posts on this boiler all over the internet it was a no brainer to me (the layman) that the obvious problem would lie with the DHW valve or its switch, which by the way,the switch is not a common fault, people change it because it is the cheapest and easiest option usually given as a first fault to check on the internet forums.
It is hardly ever the cause for the fault and is mostly the diaphragm in the DHW to blame! (do your research!)

I feel I must also add that I am not in any way prepared or inclined to attempt a gas repair as I am not qualified to do so, as joe-90 pointed out....if it had been a gas problem then I would have called a "Registered Gas Installer"out, which incidentally I did ...twice with two wrong diagnosis!
This forum I believe is for advice on DIY problems (joe-90 you give advice?) and it served invaluable to fix my problem but what gets me here is that people like you(joe-90) come to places like this after trying to give advice and then don't seem to like the outcomes when it goes right>???
I hope you never ask me for advice on Radiation safety friend because I think you would be lost with it in three seconds flat!...and no internet searches will help you.

Brassedoff....
Thanks for that m8 and am sorry to carry it on but it niggles me when someone has to stick up for me.
Regards,
 
Well done mate. You've proved that 90% of fixes are DIY jobs. Just as well you didn't get an RGI in - he'd have changed the fan and charged you £500.

where did you get 90% of fixes are DIY jobs from?
I did not say that!
I am not an RGI and would not have even attempted a repair with anything gas related,the repair was purely water/pressure.

I actually said that 95% of the symptoms of my past problem are attributed to the DHW valve which is either going to be the switch or the diaphragm and having done my homework then the switch is hardly ever to blame, it is nearly (95%....do the math after research!) always the DHW diaphragm that is perished and holed.

Why am I having this discussion?
 
When you pressured the expansion vessel, you should have opened some sort of discharges, say PRV but try not to use it, as said by a previous post, or simply open a vent point at a nearby radiator, to let excess water to get out the system so make way for enough air to be inside the expansion vessel.

In your case, you might have just pressured part of the air required in expansion vessel.
 
When you pressured the expansion vessel, you should have opened some sort of discharges, say PRV but try not to use it, as said by a previous post, or simply open a vent point at a nearby radiator, to let excess water to get out the system so make way for enough air to be inside the expansion vessel.

In your case, you might have just pressured part of the air required in expansion vessel.

Hi,

Yes kind of get what you mean, I emptied the system of air and even de-pressurised the pressure vessel before re-pressurising it with slightly over the 0.8 bar suggested, up to now everything is very good, we have hot water again and the heating now comes on in the morning on the timer and we don't have to refill the water anymore as it is always in the green on the gauge.... proper result and am actually quite proud of the achievement...
I am keeping an eye on the radiators for air and the pressure gauge on the boiler to make sure the pressure is equalized propperly and will if needed, bleed radiators and re pressurize the system.

.....It has been an education!!!! :)
 

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