best way to remove cast iron guttering?

[AlF2008]

Hi folks, I'm looking for a little advice.

we've got an old bungalow (1930s construction with brick walls and cavity) and I've discovered a problem with damp in the bedroom wall which appears to be restricted to a vertical column. On the outside at the affected area is a downpipe from guttering which I suspect must be the source of the problem as I dont believe there is a problem with the roof at this point.
I've been told that commonly they were fastened by screwing the brackets into wooden plugs inserted in the wall and over time these will rot away leaving a hole for rain and moisture to get in. Is that right?

I dont believe the guttering or downpipe are leaking although I'm not 100% sure. I hoping to be able to remove the downpipe to allow inspection of both it and the wall where it is fastened on but my concern is that the pipe and guttering might be stuck together. Is that likely to be the case and if so are there any good methods of separating the joints?

Any tips would be appreciated both for this and/or any other possible causes of the damp.

I intend to have a dig around the bottom of the pipe to make sure its still intact too but due to the nature of the damp I cant see this being the source.

 

[Mw Roofline]

Hmm, before you start removing stuff, maybe wait for a dry day and blast a hose into the gutter and down the pipe and carefully check the area around the pipe.

 

[noseall]

aged iron guttering is probably the least accessible/user friendly format of guttering there is.

most of the unions or connectors are fixed with putty as the sealant. these connections are fairly rigid and inflexible making them a maintenance nightmare. we have had to use an angle grinder to deal with some of the gutter union bolts.

you are right about the wall down pipe connections too. a timber plug is hammered into the wall then the unions are secured with twisted nails that are hammered in. these rust and subsequently expand over time and are an absolute pig to remove!

it maybe that, as it is a small column of masonry, the expansion of the twisted nails has caused the brickwork to 'lift'.

it may be this that is admitting moisture.

 

[AlF2008]

Ok thanks for that guys. I'll need to get a closer look at it at the weekend. Trouble is the ground at the bottom of the downpipe is on a slope so its not a one man job.

 

[AlF2008]

it maybe that, as it is a small column of masonry, the expansion of the twisted nails has caused the brickwork to 'lift'.

it may be this that is admitting moisture.

The render does appear to be intact (pending a closer look of course!) so the only place I can see where the water could get in to the wall is where the drainpipe is anchored or withing the loft. I had a good crawl around the the eaves last night with a inspection lamp and couldn't see any evidence of water ingress in the area so I'm fairly certain the problem lies in the guttering or drainpipe.

I'll see about putting the hose down it at the weekend too.

thanks again for the replies

 

[Symptoms]

Alf - CI needs to be painted, but over the years the back edge doesn't get a lick so it rusts. This corrosion usually isn't a problem 'cos it takes forever for to eat it's way through the thickness of the pipe (1/4" +). However, sometimes the corrosion can concentrate in a spot and produce a 'pin hole' through the pipe. Now, when it rains the water can be expelled with great velocity out through the pinhole as a fine jet. You cannot see this unless you're up close. This spray will be enough to cause your damp patch. So what you have to do is go up the ladder when it's raining and look; I remember on one occasion a jet like this had 'drilled' a hole all the way through the brickwork (soft London Yellow Stocks) ... it must have been doing its business for years.

If your CI gutters are OK then leave them, just change the knackered downpipe for a plakka one (yuk!) or get a replacement CI or aluminium CI lookalike to retain the architectural integrity. An angle grinder with a metal cutting blade is usually what you end up having to use. Tip - if you do have to cut secure the old pipe with rope 'cos if it falls on you it'll stove your head in.

 

[AlF2008]

thanks for that. I had a good look at it on saturday and I dont think there is any problem with the guttering or downpipe. We've got a problem with water coming in around the flashing at the back of the chimney and while up on the ladder I noticed that the fascia board was badly damaged. the water must be running down the sarking/rafters and on to the fascia board. In hindsight I dont know how I didn't see this in the first place as its obviously distorted althuogh in my defense none of the 3 roofers that we've had out noticed it either.

I'm planning on removing the chimney anyway so I'll make a temporary repair to the flashing to stop any more water getting in until we can get it down. And after that I'll see about replacing the fascia board and hopefully that will solve our problem.