Bookcase door

[klunk]

Hi,

I have been asked for quote to turn a cupboard door into a bookcase but still opens so the cupboard can be used but its hidden,

The current door is standard panel door 30"x51" which is about 2 feet off the floor Opening outwards, The customer doesn't want any arcs on it just wants it to look like a bookcase built it.

I was thinking of making a bookcase out of 18mm ply with a leading edge built into it, Ripping out the exciting frame and usinging some 6 x 1 the shelves are going to be 6 inches deep.

Has anyone else ever done one like this? I'm concerned about the weight of the thing when its filled with paperbacks,

I'm not sure if its worth trying to get hold of some heavy duty piano hinge or just use a few butt hinges,

any suggestions welcomed as i never done this before

Cheers

 

[r896neo]

Its more complex than it first appears because if you think about it a normal hinge scenario doesn't work because of how deep the door is. If you want it to be as deep as a bookcase but still close to a very tight fit either side then either the hinge must move out as it opens or you have to have to hinge it at or very near the front face... It probably works out easier to use a pivot hinge of some sort as that will deal with the weight as well.

hmm this is confusing me as i type it never mind you, anyway do a bit more searching before taking it on as it may not be as simple as it sounds.

 

[big-all]

are you saying you are now replacing the door with a book shelve 6" deep!!
so now the back off the bookshelve at the 6" point is now the front off the cup board!!

the clearance on the back edge on a 6" deep "door" is around 20mm
so on the lock side you will have to either angle the side back a few degrees
or easier design each side with a double thickness side wall

do i have the right or wrong ideaabout your set up !!

 

[klunk]

Hi,

Yes thats right im replacing a door with a 7 inch now deep book case,

I was planing to angle the lock side back slighty or even angling the frame back slighty, What did you mean by a double edge?

cheers

 

[big-all]

a bit off timber around 44mm wide the same thickness as the sides glued on the side at the front both sides off the shelves for ballance[same both sides]
should give you enough clearence at the back without having to resort to cutting to angles

so you finnish up with a visible double material thickness on either side off the shelves traveling back about 44mm giving you enough meat for whatever hinges you choose

are you planning on the door opening beyond 110% of opening [a bit more than right angles]!!!

you will need parliment or wide throw hinges and possible a bit more clearence

 

[klunk]

Hi,

That would mean you would see 3 thicknesses of wood thou including the frame (they dont want arcs on) so ill probs go for angling it back a bit and no they wont be opening more than 90, I have some 102x102 SS washered hinges for fire doors im going to use

Cheers

 

[big-all]

just remember the books won sit right if you angle back
you will either have a few 5 to 8mm gaps or lots off2or3mm gaps ass the books fan out or the end books wont go fully back