breaker box then 2 lights, 1 switch at the end of the run
- Thread starter pwbrown
- Start date
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you want the switch to control both lights?
if so then between the two lights you need your contries equivilent of three and earth
(the picture is british so the colours of your wires will be different)
so from the breaker box you have a cable carrying neutral ground and unswitched hot
in the cable between the two lights you have neutral ground switched hot and unswitched hot
in the cable to the switch you have ground switched hot and unswitched hot
the lights connect to ground (if they have a ground terminal) neutral and switched hot
the switch connects to ground (if it has a ground terminal) unswitched hot and switched hot
one of the hots to the switch will probablly be taken down a white core. This should be labelled with black tape or sleeving at the ends
if so then between the two lights you need your contries equivilent of three and earth
(the picture is british so the colours of your wires will be different)
so from the breaker box you have a cable carrying neutral ground and unswitched hot
in the cable between the two lights you have neutral ground switched hot and unswitched hot
in the cable to the switch you have ground switched hot and unswitched hot
the lights connect to ground (if they have a ground terminal) neutral and switched hot
the switch connects to ground (if it has a ground terminal) unswitched hot and switched hot
one of the hots to the switch will probablly be taken down a white core. This should be labelled with black tape or sleeving at the ends
Yes - don't do it.pwbrown said:
You must go to the switch first, or the wires to the lights will still be hot when the lights are turned off - this might turn out to be a Bad Thing.
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B
breezer
I think the Americans are best left to themselves regarding "electrics"
Plugwash, i can see you are trying to help, but i do not agree with the way you are suggesting.
Also you are assuming they have 3 core and earth, i am not saying they do , i am not saying they dont.
We also know they can have an "outlet" and a lamp on the same cable
Also are you licenced to give advice to Americans (I am not)
I can also tell you differnt states have different wiring codes, what may be ok in one may not in another
Plugwash, i can see you are trying to help, but i do not agree with the way you are suggesting.
Also you are assuming they have 3 core and earth, i am not saying they do , i am not saying they dont.
We also know they can have an "outlet" and a lamp on the same cable
Also are you licenced to give advice to Americans (I am not)
I can also tell you differnt states have different wiring codes, what may be ok in one may not in another
P
Paul_C
I'll start with a proviso that if you're not sure how to do this, then you really should get somebody to at least check your work before turning on the power. That said......
Run 2-core (plus ground) Romex from panel to first light, 3c+gnd from first light to second light, then 2c+gnd again from there to the switch. 3-core Romex will normally have the cores colored black, white and red.
The feed from the panel will be hot on black, neutral on white as usual.
At the first light, connect the white from the supply cable to the white on the 3c, and also connect this to the white/neutral on the light. Connect the black from the 2c supply cable to the red of the 3c cable. Finally, connect the black from the 3c to the black/hot side of the light (on a normal ES fitting the hot must go to the center contact, neutral to the screw shell).
At the second light box, connect the 3c white to the lamp's neutral/white terminal. Mark the white wire going to the switch to show it is a hot wire, and connect it to the red of the 3c cable. Finally, connect the black of the 3c, the black going to the switch, and the black/hot side of the lamp together.
Grounds should all be connected together at each point as usual, of course.
If the breaker supplying the circuit is 15A, then #14 cable would be the minimum size; if it's 20A then you need at least #12.
The NEC (adopted by all states, with amendments where necessary) also specifies certain configurations for circuits. Without further information on whether these lights are running on a new breaker on an existing one, it's impossible to say if these would be satisfied or not.
Run 2-core (plus ground) Romex from panel to first light, 3c+gnd from first light to second light, then 2c+gnd again from there to the switch. 3-core Romex will normally have the cores colored black, white and red.
The feed from the panel will be hot on black, neutral on white as usual.
At the first light, connect the white from the supply cable to the white on the 3c, and also connect this to the white/neutral on the light. Connect the black from the 2c supply cable to the red of the 3c cable. Finally, connect the black from the 3c to the black/hot side of the light (on a normal ES fitting the hot must go to the center contact, neutral to the screw shell).
At the second light box, connect the 3c white to the lamp's neutral/white terminal. Mark the white wire going to the switch to show it is a hot wire, and connect it to the red of the 3c cable. Finally, connect the black of the 3c, the black going to the switch, and the black/hot side of the lamp together.
Grounds should all be connected together at each point as usual, of course.
If the breaker supplying the circuit is 15A, then #14 cable would be the minimum size; if it's 20A then you need at least #12.
Wirenuts would be the usual form of connection.
There can also be local county/city requirements in some cases. For example the City of Chicago does not allow the use of NM cable (Romex) but requires everything to be in conduit. Some areas require permits and inspections, others do not.
The NEC (adopted by all states, with amendments where necessary) also specifies certain configurations for circuits. Without further information on whether these lights are running on a new breaker on an existing one, it's impossible to say if these would be satisfied or not.
B
breezer
a wire nut is what Amercians use to insulate wires after they have been twisted together
Also as it is America, and we are not, it means you are not quallified (sorry, but you are not ) although this is a diy forum you say things with good intent, but America has differnt rules than we do, and even these rules differ from state to state
as you said
My whole point is that unless you are qualified AND know exactly what you are doing may i suggest you do not reply.
We have an electrics outside the UK forum so that we do not give UK information to those who are not in the UK, no other reason
I also seem to recall you said
Sorry plugwash, (nothing personal) just let the Americans get on with it
Also as it is America, and we are not, it means you are not quallified (sorry, but you are not ) although this is a diy forum you say things with good intent, but America has differnt rules than we do, and even these rules differ from state to state
as you said
the optimum bits being
its the local details that make all the difference.
My whole point is that unless you are qualified AND know exactly what you are doing may i suggest you do not reply.
We have an electrics outside the UK forum so that we do not give UK information to those who are not in the UK, no other reason
I also seem to recall you said
taken from hereplugwash said:
Sorry plugwash, (nothing personal) just let the Americans get on with it
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Ceramic wirenuts were used here more than 100 years ago.
B
breezer
Panjandrum said:
think they stopped using them here in the 70's
B
breezer
yes, i wouldn't want the one on the right in my front room either (thats where the pic was taken)
oh the phase colours (colors)
oh the phase colours (colors)
P
Paul_C
Looks like Canadian phase order in that (right-hand) photo. American 3-phase 208Y/120 generally uses A/B/C = black/red/blue.
3-phase in a residential setting is also rare, except in a block of condos or similar situations. Normal residential U.S. service to a single-family home is 120/240V single-phase, 3-wire.
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