Broken Lock

[Gio]

My garage back door won't open as the lock has broken (the key just keeps turning all the time).

The doors wooden and half glazed.

Is it possible to drill the lock out to release the locking mechanism?

Its a standard Union deadlock

 

[JohnD]

Is it a cylinder lock (key is like a Yale) or a lever lock (key is like a Chubb)?

 

[Gio]

Its a lever lock.

 

[JohnD]

Then it won't easily drill out like a cylinder. it's not impossible but you'd need a chart of the lock parts so you could drill through the door into the case.

I had the same thing happen on mu old garage door, the crummy Union has gone rusty inside.

Can you get into the garage from the car door? If not, as it's half-glazed you could TRY smashing a pane and operating the key from the inside. Replacing a piece of glass will be easier than cutting the lock out.

Or you might try putting a block of wood against the door over the lock, then giving it a hard blow in the hope of breaking the lock staple out of the frame (another relatively easy repair). I'm assuming the Union has a flat pressed steel staple in the frame, not a sturdy steel box staple like a better lock?

If you can get into the garage, you can access the bolt of the lock better from the inside, and could use a padsaw or a cutting disk.

I don't know a better way, but someone may.

 

[masona]

Some lock have a anti-drill plate preventing drilling out.

The other option is to chop out a section of the jamb where the latch then open the door, renew with new timber, screw, glue.

Another way if you can see the hinges, file the pivot of the hinge and knock the pin out

Sometime the door can be lever out with a flat crow bar if you're carefull.

 

[Gio]

Some lock have a anti-drill plate preventing drilling out.

The other option is to chop out a section of the jamb where the latch then open the door, renew with new timber, screw, glue.

Another way if you can see the hinges, file the pivot of the hinge and knock the pin out

Sometime the door can be lever out with a flat crow bar if you're carefull.

I did this.

Thanks for the help, as I'd been scratching my head for a week.

But why oh why do lock manufacturers make outside locks of mild steel, makes me mad!

I'm going to fit a better quality lock now, any recommendations?

 

[JohnD]

Assuming there's anything worth having in the garage (including tools to burglarise your house) I'd fit a 5-lever BS 3621 lock with 5 brass levers.

I always use Chubb and have all the locks at the back of mu house suited to the same key, but you can get quite good BS locks by Legge for less, and i saw some own-brand BS locks at Screwfix as well as Homebase which I expect are OK.

The BS does durability as well as thief-resistance so you should be OK with any make. Measure the old lock, the new one will probably be the same size (different makes vary by a few mm) but a bit thicker so you will need to shave the lock mortice with a broad chisel so its an easy sliding fit. it will also have a very much stronger staple (the bit that goes in the frame) so you'll need to chisel this out neatly too.

What method did you use to remove the old lock?

Put on a keyhole with a swinging cover to keep the weather out, and preferably on the inside of the door as well - it'll reduce drafts carrying dirt and grit into the lock.

BTW, big (car size) garage doors are not very secure, you might think about adding a few big steel bolts to the top and bottom to make it difficult to force, you can operate them from inside, and use the personal door at the back as your final exit.

Incidentally, you can often buy Chubb locks on Ebay at a good price, perhaps where someone has bought the wrong size. If buying by post have it sent to a friends house, you don't want anyone who might have a spare key knowing the correct address.

 

[masona]

Assuming there's anything worth having in the garage (including tools to burglarise your house) I'd fit a 5-lever BS 3621 lock with 5 brass levers.

Gio,

This is very important as quoted by JohnD_ . If you have a read on your insurance policy they will tell you the minimum requirement for locks which is normally BS 3621 and should be on all doors on your property as well!

Cilla Black lost a claim on her last break-in because of incorrectly locks fitted and this was just the window locks

I find it frustrating when insurance company take your money knowing you're not insured but having said that it's on your policies but misleading if you don't understand it.

 

[Gio]

What method did you use to remove the old lock?

I ground off the head pins on the hinges, then tapped them out with a drift then pushed the door out.

I've now fitted new hinges and a Chubb deadlock (3G114) and a Chubb rimlock (4L71)

 

[JohnD]

Sounds like a good job! And I believe you can deadlock your rimlock which is useful.

If you want to prevent someone else using the same method, you might like to add a couple of hinge bolts. Most are cylinder-shaped so easy to fit (Ingersoll do a rectangular one not often seen).

 

[Gio]

Sounds like a good job! And I believe you can deadlock your rimlock which is useful.

If you want to prevent someone else using the same method, you might like to add a couple of hinge bolts. Most are cylinder-shaped so easy to fit (Ingersoll do a rectangular one not often seen).

Lol it should be, took me all day to do.

I imagine you mean by hinge bolts, they are recessed into the door and they project into the frame with the door shut.

I'd not want to fit them as we already have our garage on its own alarm circuit (independent of the house) with door and motion sensors. The main garage door also has a recessed ground anchor with a chain looped through bars welded to the doors and then padlocked

 

[JohnD]

?you've got a bike in there?

 

[Gio]

?you've got a bike in there?

3 in fact, all chained together.

 

[Tarquin-F-Smythe-QJM]

Mild steel locks outside are not ideal. Just remember to oil/grease once every 20 years. LOL