Can't find a matching internal door to fit existing frames

[Lamentable]

I live in a 1930's house and have finished renovating the upstairs and have fitted white primed DX30 doors.



The upstairs frames accepted a 1981 x 762mm (30") door.

I did not realise the downstairs frames are slightly wider at 813mm (32").

I can't find a matching door with a width of 813mm. I can get one that is either 762mm (30") or 838mm (33") but not one that matches the size of the frame. Changing the frames for a different size is now not an option as the hall which has been plastered and architrave already fitted.

I'd like to avoid getting a custom made door if I can as they are expensive.

Is there anything I could do to make the 838mm door fit in the 813mm frame? The door has 20mm lippings around each side but the person I used to fit the doors has expressed some concerns about taking 12.5mm of each side of the 838mm door to make it closer to 813mm.

Interestingly, I can get an oak door in the same style and the correct size.



Would it be possible to paint this door in white and make it look the same as the white primed versions I have already fitted? Just to note, the white primed doors actually have a 3mm MDF "face" on the front that looks very smooth when painted.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Tigercubrider]

32 Inch (813mm) Internal Doors At Express Doors Direct

An extensive range of 813mm / 32 inch internal doors at Express Doors Direct. With a 10 year guarantee and nationwide delivery, buy your perfect interior door today.

www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk

I simply googled

"internal door width813mm"

 

[Lamentable]

You can't get a white primed door in 813mm in DX30 style.

I've also googled extensively

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Your white primed doors- are they solid wood or lightweight frame and cladding?
If solid then you should be ok losing the width, if lightweight then no very unwise. White primer isn't expensive...

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

What height does it need to be?

 

[Lamentable]

It needs to be 1981mm (78") height.

The only door I can get that is 813mm (32") wide is also 2032mm (80") in height.

Feels like I'm a bit stuck as it will be very hard to change 3 door frames now to suit.

Options:

1. Somehow make the 1981 x 838mm door to fit into the 813mm width frame.

2. Adjust the 2032 x 813mm door to fit into a 1981mm height frame.

Which would work best?

Thanks again.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

It needs to be 1981mm (78") height.

The only door I can get that is 813mm (32") wide is also 2032mm (80") in height.

Feels like I'm a bit stuck as it will be very hard to change 3 door frames now to suit.

Options:

1. Somehow make the 1981 x 838mm door to fit into the 813mm width frame.

2. Adjust the 2032 x 813mm door to fit into a 1981mm height frame.

Which would work best?

Thanks again.

As above, are they solid (fairly heavy) or hollow panel types? If they're solid you can trim that much, if hollow no chance- probably cheapest to buy some new doors that fit your frames.

 

[Diver Fred]

It needs to be 1981mm (78") height.

The only door I can get that is 813mm (32") wide is also 2032mm (80") in height.

Feels like I'm a bit stuck as it will be very hard to change 3 door frames now to suit.

Options:

1. Somehow make the 1981 x 838mm door to fit into the 813mm width frame.

2. Adjust the 2032 x 813mm door to fit into a 1981mm height frame.

Which would work best?

Thanks again.

option 1 - possible but will need a skilled man with a well equipped workshop to cut out the lipping and insert new. I wouldn't wish to do that - I have the tools, did help my dad (a very skilled C&J) do one door a long time ago - understand what has to be done.

option 2 - Much easier, I would say a chippy with a track saw, plenty of clamps with other tools & glue and half a day should be able to do it on site. Needs careful measuring of any existing doors to make them look even.

 

[Lamentable]

As above, are they solid (fairly heavy) or hollow panel types? If they're solid you can trim that much, if hollow no chance- probably cheapest to buy some new doors that fit your frames.

The supplier's website states:

Finish: Unfinished
Material: Oak
Construction: Engineered Solid Core (Heavyweight)
Lipping: 20mm

 

[Lamentable]

Here is a picture I found of the frames before I plastered the walls.

I wonder if the two on the right were originally 2032mm (80") height frames and have been reduced for some reason.

In any case it looks like I could replace both of those with 2032mm height frames and then I could in fact get frames that would fit.

It would be a lot of faffing about, but it would be possible to carefully cut back the plaster with an oscillating multi tool and insert new frames.

Not so sure on the kitchen door (right of the stairs) however.

 

[Diver Fred]

Looks to me that the two door linings (frames) where cut down to match the height of the kitchen doorway. Yes those door ways could be increased in height but the means you suggest.
But that is not possible with the kitchen doorway as the head of the door lining is up to the little and that cannot be cut down.

Odd heights of the doors won't look right.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

'Engineered solid core' sounds like a lot of words, I suspect those are the mainly hollow ones (with 20mm of meat at the edges) so cutting them down would probably end in tears.
I'd be looking for alternative doors- if those linings have been put in properly they'll put up a fight. Aesthetically you could get away with the kitchen door being shorter than the other 2 but that's up to you, you could cheat by using wider architrave round it.
Have you got any local carpentry companies (or timber merchants or even builders merchants)- it'll be worth having a wander and see what people can do for you.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

When cutting down frame and panel style doors in the width I am always
corncerned about the aesthetics if wnding up with overly narrow stiles. The same goes for lopping more than 25mm or so off the length. In this case, though, there is the additional issue of potentially cutting so far into the lippings that having sunk the hunges 3mm into the edge of a door you'll be left with only 3 to 4mm of lipping to hold the hinge screws wjich doesn't bide well for a long future unless you are willing to drill out where the screws ho and hlue in lengths of 8 or 10mm hardwood dowel to overcome any future issues

As others have said it is possible to trim off the lippings (with a plunge saw and guide rails) and relip the doors, but this will alway leave unavoidable faint witness lines, which you may or may not find acceptable. Not a job for a young "flash Harry" type of tradesman as this takes accuracy and patience

 

[Diver Fred]

Having spent some time thinking about your question; I think 'engineered solid core' means the door construction is the the rails and stiles are strips of a 'hardwood' glued together then faced with oak or pine veneer. If that is the construction method then cutting the height down is possible without weakening the structure. You need to compare the weight of the doors, the sound when tapped and if the door has a lock block or not. (If the door has a lock block it will be hollow construction, information will be marked on the top edge and in the supplied paperwork. No lock block markings then fairly safe to assume it's solid wood.)
As J&K days you need to be careful on how much is trimmed off the door height - me thinks something like a 1/4-1/3 off the top with the balance off the bottom.