Damp proof membrane as Waterproof membrane

1703979222674.png
 
Sponsored Links
What did you end up doing please?
And was it successful, I am trying to do a similar thing .
Similar situation: I sometimes prep public toilets/changing in the buildings I work on. In recent years there has been a big shift towards using cement fibre board as backing for tiling, both on walls and floors. Joints in boards are kept to a minimum with polymer sealant used to gap fill in wet areas before the tiling is applied (the tiling will often get axreson grout and corner joints will be either polymer or silicone sealed.

Where roll vinyl floors are laid the flooring often gets lapped up the wall by 100 to 150mm and all joints are hot welded as opposed to cold rolled (less likely to leak). Where vinyl or LVT floors are to be laid onto timber floors we normally over ply the sub-floor first (5.5 to 12mm hardwood plywood nailed on 100mm centres), again with as few joints as possible. In the case of flooring which isn't getting lapped up the walls the floor to wall joints are best sealed before any finishing trim such as skirting is applied. Even then the skirtings get siliconed to the floor (again) once complete. Thay is how my own bsthroom was done. Given that some of the ceilings below new toilets we install are irreplaceable, it makes sense to be a bit belt and braces.
 
My Australian friend tells me they include floor drains as well in case of undetected leaks or overflows.
 
Sponsored Links
Sometimes, yes. That's the plumbers' job, though. The plumbers can also fit tap running detection which automatically isolates (solenoid valve) any tap left running for more than a pre-set time, and can be wired up to inform the building management office of a potential overflow incident. Not cheap, though, but hhen neither is repairing a hand painted, listed ceiling
 
He mentioned his local sports club had a problem with unvented hot water while it was unattended. I think the hall was flooded snd timber floor curled up.
 
Similar situation: I sometimes prep public toilets/changing in the buildings I work on. In recent years there has been a big shift towards using cement fibre board as backing for tiling, both on walls and floors. Joints in boards are kept to a minimum with polymer sealant used to gap fill in wet areas before the tiling is applied (the tiling will often get axreson grout and corner joints will be either polymer or silicone sealed.

Where roll vinyl floors are laid the flooring often gets lapped up the wall by 100 to 150mm and all joints are hot welded as opposed to cold rolled (less likely to leak). Where vinyl or LVT floors are to be laid onto timber floors we normally over ply the sub-floor first (5.5 to 12mm hardwood plywood nailed on 100mm centres), again with as few joints as possible. In the case of flooring which isn't getting lapped up the walls the floor to wall joints are best sealed before any finishing trim such as skirting is applied. Even then the skirtings get siliconed to the floor (again) once complete. Thay is how my own bsthroom was done. Given that some of the ceilings below new toilets we install are irreplaceable, it makes sense to be a bit belt and braces.
Thanks for your detailed reply, this sounds like what I need to do, is it an epoxy resin grout you use?

Any particular makes for these products?
Or is the mapei one I can get at die chains ok?

Thanks
 
Thanks for your detailed reply, this sounds like what I need to do, is it an epoxy resin grout you use?
My bathroom at home was done with a Mapei resin grout on the tiles with silicone sealant at the floor and corner joints. I siliconed all the grab rail and wirework screw holes before inserting the plugs. The sub-floor below the vinyl was plyed off with 5.5mm hardwood flooring plywood, but the vinyl was installed for me by one of the flooring guys as a sort of returned favour, so commercial vinyl (off a job) with a welded joint. I know he put both a liquid DPM and a self levelling screed on the ply, but I didn't ask what he used. The sink pedestal, bath and WC were removed before the ply was fitted and replaced after the vinyl had been fitted. Again, well sealed.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top