Drayton Lifestyle LP522 - wiring help please?!

[maocul]

I recently moved house and have had problems with lock-out on my Potterton Suprima 60. Potterton engineer visited and advised that there is no problem with boiler (after replacing pump) and advised that the wiring for the thermostat (wireless...obviously added after central heating installed) was wrong.

I have now removed the thermostat...thinking this will solve my problems but when reconnecting the Drayton programmer it now just blows a fuse

I have obviously re-wired it incorrectly so am after some help. Here is a list of what wires I have to go into the programmer if someone could tell me what should go where that would be great!!!


Flex 1 (From Boiler)
1. (Blue wire) From 'pump live' on boiler...seems to terminate
2. (Red wire) From 'SWL' on mains side of boiler...doesn't connect to programmer but goes off and is connected to red wire on another four-core flex.
Flex 2 (From Boiler)
1. (Red wire) From 'mains live' on boiler to L on programmer
2. (Blue wire) From 'mains neutral' on boiler to N on programmer
Flex 3 (not sure where this comes from)
1. (Red wire) connected to 'SWL' as mentioned above
2. (Blue wire) connected to N on programmer
3. (Yellow wire) terminates
Flex 4 (again not sure where this one is from)
1. (Blue wire) connected to 1 (HW off) on programmer
2. (Red wire) connected to 3 (HW on) on programmer
3. (Yellow wire) connected to 4 (CH on) on programmer
Flex 5 (From Mains)
Standard Live/Neutral and Earth going to N L and E on programmer

The two flexes I'm not sure of come from upstairs in the airing cupboard where I have a pump, a mid-position actuator and a thermostat on the tank all feeding wires into a junction box which then go out into these two flexes. As both flexes contain a red and yellow and a blue wire it is impossible to differentiate between the two (since my multimeter is broken!)

PLEASE HELP ME!!!

 

[doitall]

1. (Blue wire) From 'pump live' on boiler...seems to terminate

Blue from the pump is neutral.

 

[tamz]

Bet you wish you had marked them!

I can't follow what you are saying.
When you say

Flex 1 (From Boiler)
1. (Blue wire) From 'pump live' on boiler...seems to terminate

Terminate where?It can't go nowhere. It should go to the pump or another wire that eventually goes to the pump!

You will need a multimeter and a bit of patience and a wiring diagram of a Y plan (so you have a bit of a clue)
http://www.gasman.fsbusiness.co.uk/images/Ypl.jpg

Yours has not been wired to a standard diagram (there are many ways to skin a cat) but if you follow the wires they will all go to the same places.

Tip
Not all blues or blacks are neutrals.[/url]

 

[D_Hailsham]

Flex 1 (From Boiler)
1. (Blue wire) From 'pump live' on boiler...seems to terminate
2. (Red wire) From 'SWL' on mains side of boiler...doesn't connect to programmer but goes off and is connected to red wire on another four-core flex.

The blue wire is actually the live from the boiler to the pump in the airing cupboard. It is done this way because the boiler needs to control the pump.
The red wire is the Switched Live - this is what turns the boiler on.

The blue will connect, in the upstairs junction box, to the same terminal as the pump live.
The red will connect, via the red wire of Flex 3, to the same terminal as the orange wire from the valve and the call wire from the cylinder thermostat.

Flex 2 (From Boiler)
1. (Red wire) From 'mains live' on boiler to L on programmer
2. (Blue wire) From 'mains neutral' on boiler to N on programmer

This is the power supply to the boiler

Flex 3 (not sure where this comes from)
1. (Red wire) connected to 'SWL' as mentioned above
2. (Blue wire) connected to N on programmer
3. (Yellow wire) terminates

Red wire: see above Flex 1 Red. One end should connect to valve Orange
This should enable you to identify where both ends of the blue and yellow wires terminate.

Flex 4
1. (Blue wire) connected to 1 (HW off) on programmer
2. (Red wire) connected to 3 (HW on) on programmer
3. (Yellow wire) connected to 4 (CH on) on programmer
Flex 5 (From Mains)

Blue will connect to same terminal as grey from valve
Red to HW thermostat common
Yellow to same terminal as white from valve.

Standard Live/Neutral and Earth going to N L and E on programmer

That's one way of doing it. Another way is to connect the supply to the junction box and feed the programmer and boiler from there.

 

[maocul]

D_Hailsham - thanks so much for your clear and concise answer...it really made a lot more sense after reading that!

Having followed that through, used a multimeter to check what wire comes from where and using the wiring diagrams I have for programmer and the Y-plan one I am fairly sure I have the wiring done correctly now.

HOWEVER...when I switch on the mains I now have a permanent red light on the boiler (ours is a Potterton Suprima 60 with just the one LED on the PCB not the one with two) The pump runs, the call for HW produces 240V on Switch Live on boiler as does the call for CH but I have a boiler that doesn't work!!! According to the label on the boiler a permanent red light indicates either 1)Pump Live is not connected directly to boiler (which it is...pump live on boiler is connected to pump live on pump) or 2) Live and Neutral are wrong way round (which they aren't...even tried switching them round just to make sure)

SO...I have drawn up my own wiring diagram of what I have. If you can see any glaring errors I would really appreciate any help on the matter...am tearing my hair out now!

If I can be confident the wiring is correct I can call out the Potterton engineer again and leave it to him!

Thanks so much.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Can't see anything wrong with your wiring.

Do you still have the user instructions?

If not, a solid or flashing red light means the boiler has been locked out.

Press the reset button for between one and ten seconds. If that does not work, check that the gas and water are turned on. Check the fuse on the PCB.

If all fails, call the engineer.

PS you can find the user instructions at www.partsarena.com/baxi. You will have to download and install a small program to view them.

 

[maocul]

Can't see anything wrong with your wiring.

Do you still have the user instructions?.

Yes, although it looks as if our PCB was replaced sometime after it was originally installed as the instructions show two LEDs on the PCB and we only have one.

If not, a solid or flashing red light means the boiler has been locked out.

Press the reset button for between one and ten seconds. If that does not work, check that the gas and water are turned on. Check the fuse on the PCB.

Have tried the reset but it just goes Orange and then Flashes Red and when pressed again it goes solid Red

Will check the Water and Gas but pretty sure they are still on as haven't touched them. Will also check PCB fuse - hadn't thought of that.

If all fails, call the engineer.

Think I'll be calling them tomorrow!!!

Thanks again for all your help...much appreciated!

 

[D_Hailsham]

Please post what the engineer found wrong and the solution.

 

[maocul]

Potterton engineer just been.

Our wiring was correct (phew!) (thanks again for that!)

The problem was with the pcb...he replaced it and *voila*...our boiler now works!!!