Freezing Pipes

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Just a quick query. I am looking to move a radiator and not to keen on draining down the system. I was thinking of freezing the pipes to do the work, anyone got any views on using the freezing kits?

Thanks :LOL:
 
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They do work, but what exactly are you hoping to achieve during the frozen period? Generally I only do this if I'm changing a faulty rad valve and I don't trust the state of the rest of the system.

For moving a rad entirely I would always drain down, so I don't understand why you want to avoid it - a freezing kit is not really a lot less than a dose of inhibitor, and there is no pressure of time with the latter.

Also, it would be even more expensive to freeze a CH pipe when the system has been running!
 
I've just removed a rad in my kitchen (with a concrete tiled floor) and used a bung in the header tank and vent pipe. Only lost a little water from the rad and caught the rest in a container. If you have a gravity system these can save hassle.
 
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A bung is great, if you're only opening one thing at a time (e.g. changing one rad valve, while the other one is closed.
But if you have two openings at the same time, air can rush up one and let water rush out of the other.

Moving a radiator is likely to have open cut pipes.
 
Thanks

May actually drain down the system, as i might do some others rads at the same time.
 
Fit new rad and pipe work upto existing, freeze pipes , quick cut and connect . job done. cost about a tenner for cans.
 
fitz1 said:
Fit new rad and pipe work upto existing, freeze pipes , quick cut and connect . job done. cost about a tenner for cans.
So, you're suggesting, to someone who's apparantly uncomfortable with draining down, that the cut and connect will be "quick"? This has to rank among the rankest answers I've seen on the forum. In what way do you believe that you're being helpful to a non-professional?
 
I HATE freezing kits

and agree with softus if you can whip it in kwik when frozen then you are capable of draining down, its much easier in the long run if you are doing something a bit more complicated than whacking a balofix or rad valve on
 
gann5947 said:
Thanks

May actually drain down the system, as i might do some others rads at the same time.
Good idea! Draining down / refilling takes time, but isn't rocket science.

I suppose if you're plumbing for a living, then time is money and doing things as quickly as possible is essential.

But for DIY work, you can always go and do something else while the system empties. And you'll have no time constraints - if the job takes a bit longer than you expect, nothing disasterous will happen.

You'll need to add an inhibitor when you re-fill, presumably.

Nick.
 
Hey guys, gann said he didnt want to drain so i gave him an option.All he needs to do is freeze it and then put two service valves on,gives him plenty of time to alter pipes.If its a combi then it is probably better to drain,but if its vented it could bring him more grief than he wants.
 
JohnD said:
A bung is great, if you're only opening one thing at a time (e.g. changing one rad valve, while the other one is closed.
But if you have two openings at the same time, air can rush up one and let water rush out of the other.

Moving a radiator is likely to have open cut pipes.


Then bung it and put a valve on one side. Low and behold,only the one open end!!! Magic!


I virtually never drain down. i change cylinders, rads and even once a Central heating boiler using a bung kit...........never fails. Just as good as freezing but costs nowt.
 

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