Glow Worm Compact 75p combi

[GazKaz]

Hi all

I have a Glow Worm Compact 75p combi which is about 7 years old with a problem.

When the heating is on, after a few minutes it starts clicking away furiously. The clicking seems to be the igniter, but sometimes the clicking eminates from right behind the lower front panel where the electronics are mounted.

Last night whilst the missus was in the shower, it started clicking again, but this time the hot water went cold. Sometimes it does sound like a relay click, but I may be wrong.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance

gazkaz

 

[GazKaz]

Anyone?

 

[Alfredo]

Struggling a bit.. 75p is manual ignition with a pilot (P for pilot) yes? so it can't be the ignitor I don't think. Usual problem is sticking HW pin and split diaphragm, but it should not click if its this. I'm more familiar with the 75E (electronic ignition) which has a somewhat different layout. on the E the clicking can be a faulty stepper motor, but again i'm not sure if the P has one..

Does the pump run? Anyone else out there??

Alfredo

 

[GazKaz]

Hi Alfredo

Thanks for your reply

The pump does run, but when the clicking starts the pump stops, then when the clicking stops, pump continues to run ok.

I've got a guy coming out on Tuesday to have a look.

Thanks

gazkaz

 

[gasgeezer]

The pump does not run during dhw mode it has a bi-thermal h/exch and relies on mains pressure to lift a flow sensor.The pump may kick in when hot water is finished to dissipate the heat out of h/exch.The pump needs to run in c/h mode.The problem mentioned could be many faults the engineer s/be able to diagnose when on site.

 

[gasgeezer]

The pump does not run during dhw mode it has a bi-thermal h/exch and relies on mains pressure to lift a flow sensor.The pump may kick in when hot water is finished to dissipate the heat out of h/exch.The pump needs to run in c/h mode.The problem mentioned could be many faults the engineer s/be able to diagnose when on site.

 

[GazKaz]

UPDATE ON PROBLEM

Engineer camr out and suspected a loose wire going to the pcb.

He went away but the next day it started the problem again. He then said it required a new pcb. He's getting back to me for a price.

My main question is: I can get a replacement pcb myself off the internet for around £80. I've got the part number for the pcb so I know it's the right one. Is it just a simple task of disconnecting the multi pin connectors and simply replacing the board myself? Do I have to do any adjustments on the pcb to the main burner pressure, or will it be factory pre set?

Thanks again

 

[GazKaz]

Anyone? Please

 

[Rob]

again im more familiar with the electronic version. with regards to replacing a PCB i did one on an electronic today and this had 3 pots that required adjusting for correct gas pressures. so corgi im afraid.

 

[GazKaz]

FAULT RECTIFIED !!

Got British Gas out to sort the problem once and for all. My plumber "Friend" was taking the p***.

It was a dry joint on the main PCB. Yellow wire going to the fan resistor was making one of the relays chatter.

Replaced PCB, full healthcheck, everyone happy

Except it has cost me £26 a month to cover the boiler against any further breakdown. Nevermind, peace of mind and all that

thanks again to the guys who posted replies!

gazkaz