Had camera fitted front and rear on a Ford Focus, was told the cameras would turn off 15 mins after car stopped.

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Had camera fitted front and rear on a Ford Focus 1.6 litre, I was told the cameras would turn off 15 mins after the car, looked after my cars as much as possible myself stopped. Left the car for several days, went to use it and found the battery dead. RAC came out, started the car and declared the battery knackered. I asked about the cameras, would they have drained the battery as I had not unplugged them from the lighter? No battery is dead less than 1% in the battery, I thought that was consistent with being drained by the cameras being left on. When I said I was going to take the car for a run to charge the battery and call in at Tesco. I was told the car wouldn't start if I turned it off, RAC wouldn't come out for the battery again. Yes, he did happen to have a battery on his motor, I declined it, said I get a battery from Amazon. Who's going to fit it, I was asked, I am, I told the man. Make sure you get a good battery, I don't recognize the make of the one on the car. How much notice should we take of these RAC people? I've heard that story several times before, perhaps it's because I'm now a 78-year-old woman. I spent 2 years as a driver in a Royal Artillery regiment, I've stripped and rebuilt similar engines. I've also done as much work as possible on my cars.

I'm new to these cameras, do they take a lot of charge from the battery when the motor's running, and what about if the motor isn't running, and they are left on? I will let you know what happens.
 
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Does the car have stop-start? Some battery's need to be coded to the car, you can't just swap them. I'd be very wary of buying a battery off Amazon unless it's a reputable seller and recognizable brand. Someone will be along shortly to answer the technical questions. :)
 
I wonder if there is a power supply circuit in the thing you plug into the socket?

I'd check by unplugging it, and seeing if the problem goes away.

I buy Varta silver-top batteries now, they last ten years for me. Some Bosch are the Varta battery with a different label and price stuck on.

Very good deals from Battery Megastore of Tewksbury, delivery included.

I hear Hankook are better quality than you'd expect from the price.

 
Back to the camera - I think you will find the camera runs on it's own internal battery, but only once the external power is turned off, or you unplug it.

Tanya is a good, reputable source of quality car batteries.
 
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I had a similar situation a few weeks ago where my battery was completely dead. Not even a click and no headlights glowing etc. RAC came out and said the battery was the OEM one and had now failed due to cell failure. Car is 10 years old so not surprised. When I told him I'd driven a double round trip of 70 miles, (equalling 140+ miles), and it had been fine so should be charged up he replied that wasn't the case. He said satnavs and cameras were always drawing current even if the car was switched off and locked. Cameras need to keep drawing so, if the random collision feature is operating, it will take a series of snap shots even though there is no-one in the vehicle. Some can be so sensitive that the wind can cause them to operate. He recommended removing the camera supply each time I park up.
(And yes, he did sell me a new battery with a 4 year warranty for £240. :( )
 
He said satnavs and cameras were always drawing current even if the car was switched off and locked.

Not quite true - my radio, satnav, TV, etc. unit draws just microamps on standby, my camera draws nothing it has it's 12v disconnected and runs on it's internal battery, if triggered whilst the 12v is off. The main source of discharge, is the car itself, around 20mA - to keep it's systems and alarm functioning.
 
. I asked about the cameras, would they have drained the battery as I had not unplugged them from the lighter?
The 12V socket should be switched off when the car is off, so there would be no drain.

If it's one of those cars where the 12V socket is permanently powered even with the car off, then yes - camera or anything else connected there can easily destroy the battery.
 
The menu settings on the camera can be altered to power off after shut down and in some cases to monitor for any knocks. A lot depends on the type of camera fitted.

It depends on the make and age of the car as to whether it will need coding to the car. Most will accept a straight swap like for like and although it may not be ideal it will let you drive the car until you can get someone to check it out.
 
60 Ah over 10 days equals 250 mA to fully discharge, that seems a lot, so seems likely some other fault as well.

To be frank the RAC man found a fault that both myself and Jag main dealers had not found, they tend to be good, but I would guess in your case either battery faulty, or car sits unused for a long time.

I also have a long experience with auto electrics, but I got it wrong, the new smart charger can take two weeks to recharge a battery, I would have binned a battery long before that in the past, but when a battery slowly discharges it is also slow to charge, no way to speed it up.
 
The menu settings on the camera can be altered to power off after shut down and in some cases to monitor for any knocks. A lot depends on the type of camera fitted.
Only if it’s hardwired to a permanent 12v supply.
 
I'm new to these cameras, do they take a lot of charge from the battery when the motor's running, and what about if the motor isn't running, and they are left on? I will let you know what happens.
Very little when the car is running. Negligible. If it had just flattened the battery, it would charge up again. Plenty of batteries die at this time of the year. Just test your 12v supply with the ignition turned off - I doubt if it would be live so it all points to a duff car battery if you are running it from the 12v supply socket.
 
The camera fitting and the battery failure after such a cold spell could just be coincidences.

If you need a new battery then get one, fit it and then see what happens.
If the new battery goes flat then you need to start investigating what is causing the current drain.

My Ford KA+ ciggy lighter socket is on all the time.
 
I moved house, the result was a few abandoned lead acid batteries, some likely had been flat for a year, also same when caravan in storage when Colvid came.

In the past I would have just dumped the batteries, but thought nothing to lose, so lets try recharging. Two hurdles though, one the smart charger is designed to detect if 6 or 12 volt, and to auto switch off when battery is removed, so some method was needed to kid the charger it was connected to a 12 volt battery, the second is if there is a shorted cell, the charger can over charge the remaining cells.

So I needed a 12 volt 7 Ah battery in parallel with the bad battery to make the charger work, and I also needed an energy monitor so I could see what has happened.

So I used an Energenie energy monitor connected to the PC, so I could see what has gone on, so I would get a graph Jazz and Kia charging 7.jpg showing charge rate, one shown was for a good battery. And I would from time to time have a look to see what had happened.

So the donor battery would charge, and the graph would show zero charge rate in the main, what was happening was the battery voltage would rise to 14.4 volts, then the charger would switch off, and the voltage would drop to 12.7 volt, and the charger would switch on, the time to go from 12.7 to 14.4 and back to 12.8 was very short, and time between 12.8 and 12.7 volt was very long, and it sat there for around 10 days and nothing seemed to happen.

Then it was like flicking a switch, the charger turned on at 0.8 amp and stayed at 0.8 amp for around amp hour rate divided by 0.8. Then it returned to as it was before, except now the faulty battery was fully charged.

This did not just happen with one battery, but with many, I did have some failures, but 80% recharged. It seems keeping a voltage on the battery must slowly soften the sulphur, then it can return to being acid again. This has always been the case, but with flooded batteries we had the option to top up water, so in the 60's with a dynamo we would put batteries on an equalising charge over night once a month, the idea was to over charge good cells so bad cells could catch up, then replace water, but this also ensured any sulphur has time to convert back to acid.

However with the sealed for life battery you can't top it up, so this practice was stopped, and with alternators, it was not really required, but with the modern absorbed glass mat or valve regulated lead acid battery there is even less free acid, should be non, so charging has needed to change as a result, even in the old days we would only recharge over night, but as my experiment showed it can take days not hours to turn all the sulphur back to acid.

My wife's Jag over colvid was not being used, and putting it on charge with the smart charger it would take days before the charger would show zero charge rate, it would raise every day at 12:30 just after midday, clearly some thing in the car was waking up, likely connecting back to Jaguar or wife mobile, she has the option of starting the car before she uses it so warm when she drives off, so it must have some coms.

We have realised if the battery is not seen by the on board computer as fully charged, the stop/start stops working, so if car fails to stop engine at junctions, we know it needs to go on charge for a few days.

We always connect charger to the jump start point under the bonnet, one as easy to leave bonnet cracked open, and two it means the on board computer is registering the charge, we never connect direct to battery in the boot.

The other cars, mine and the tow car for caravan we put on charge around once every couple of months when not in daily use, my car tends to be used once a week to drive 2 miles, this is simply not enough, and I just have to accept it needs a boost every so often.

I use a couple of cheap Lidi chargers. 1672491108448.png But not seen them for sale for some time now. The ctek is similar, but much more expensive, and single voltage, the Lidi one also does 6 volt batteries. They are called "Smart" chargers and designed for AGM lead acid and can be left connected to the battery without any harm for months, the old chargers if left connected for an extended time would damage the battery.
 
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