hanging doors

[chippi]

hi all im a good chippi and hung lots of doors. the way i do mine is make the door fit the opening by leaving a 2-3mm gap all round depending on the door and place a leading edge on the front edge so it doesnt hit the frame when it closes, but recently ive seen doors being hung leaving a 4mm gap and then packing a 2mm gap behind the hinge which will close the gap to 2mm all round. i asked why they do it like this and they said that no leading edge will be required like this? is this a new method of being taught or am i just old

 

[masona]

A poor standard if you ask me, I do a 2-3mm gap with both side taper slightly.
A packing behind the hinge wouldn't need chopping out as well and wouldn't look right.

 

[sr72]

howdy,
do you folks use one of those power planers to get 2mm all round?then sharp chisel for hinge recesses.i've had a go at hanging a panel door and made a bit of a ballock of it.ended up taking too much off. whats the easiest trick?thanks

 

[king.module]

one thing to remember when hanging doors is don't prep your door in a slightly damp environment - because when you hang it the 2mm gap between the door and the frame becomes 6mm+ when it's been hung for a while .....


lesson learnt - lol

 

[big-all]

heeelllooo chippi and welcome

it wont make a whit of difference if you reccess the hinge 2mm more into the hinge pocket then pack it out the arc off the door will be unafected

unless i am misreading this

 

[masona]

ended up taking too much off. whats the easiest trick?thanks

The problem with electric planer you can easily get carried away ! Best to set the blade cutting depth at 1mm and not 5mm Always have a pencil line marking where you want to stop to and don't guess

 

[sr72]

thanks for the replies folks.i think its made a bit more difficult when the door frames are'nt true? think i need some practice also one of the other doors hinge is bust(holes too big for screws)and it makes a f***%$^G bang when you open it.is the remedie to fill with filler and start all over?thanks again

 

[masona]

one of the other doors hinge is bust(holes too big for screws)and it makes a f***%$^G bang when you open it.is the remedie to fill with filler and start all over?thanks again

Make some thin bit of wood or wedge a few matchsticks and glue it into the screw hole then re-drill.

 

[big-all]

thanks for the replies folks.i think its made a bit more difficult when the door frames are'nt true? think i need some practice also one of the other doors hinge is bust(holes too big for screws)and it makes a f***%$^G bang when you open it.is the remedie to fill with filler and start all over?thanks again

when the frames are bowed on the hinge side youve got to make shure the knucles[hinge pivots] line up exactly which may involve setting two hinges more into door and one more into the frame or visa versa
or two with more knuckle showing and one with less
if they dont exactly line up when you move the door it will try and bend the door or twist the hinges this can cause the door to bark judder and spring open shut or to a position in between

 

[sr72]

thanks for the replies folks.i think its made a bit more difficult when the door frames are'nt true? think i need some practice also one of the other doors hinge is bust(holes too big for screws)and it makes a f***%$^G bang when you open it.is the remedie to fill with filler and start all over?thanks again

when the frames are bowed on the hinge side youve got to make shure the knucles[hinge pivots] line up exactly which may involve setting two hinges more into door and one more into the frame or visa versa
or two with more knuckle showing and one with less
if they dont exactly line up when you move the door it will try and bend the door or twist the hinges this can cause the door to bark judder and spring open shut or to a position in between

thanks for the replies masona and big-all.the hinge thing seems a little tedious but shall have a go.bit swings +roundabouts it'll have to wait till after crimbo merry crimbo to ya all

 

[BruisedThumb]

I bought a kit comprising a lot of lengths of hollow dowel, just like pencils with no lead, plus a tapered cutter.

Assuming that the screw-holes in the frame are too big (but in the right places) you open them out with the cutter in the electric drill. Then you use an office pencil sharpener to put a point on the end of the dowel, anoint it with PVA (or the glue of your choice) and tap it into the hole. When the glue is set you cut off the excess dowel with a dovetail saw and flush it with a chisel. The 'lead-less' hole down the centre of the dowel acts as a pilot hole for the screw.

I bought my kit from Axminster PTC, I think it's called the (something) 'Plugger' but I think they've dropped it from their catalogue recently. I'd be interested to know if they're available elsewhere; I've nearly used up all my 'invisible pencils'!

 

[masona]

Not heard of it, I suppose you could use a thin dowel and a pencil sharpener