Honeywell 2 port valve faulty microswitch ?

[CBW]

It’s a 2 port, but a Myson.

 

[robbie77]

I have took the head off the valve and opened the thermostat. If you look in the picture you can see the switch is depressed so it looks like a microswitch issue?!
Are they normally quite robust? I am going to try and swap the switch over from an old valve.
When I bought this valve I bought a genuine Honeywell one hoping it would last and avoided the copies of ebay. Looks like a waste of money now, having said that the other two valves have been fine for 10 years.....

 

[robbie77]

I cut the microswitch from the old 2 port switch and soldered it on to the faulty valve and it's working again now.
picture of microswitch if it helps someone out someday. Thank you for everyone's contribution much appreciated.

WIFE...TAKE NOTE THIS IS WHY I DON'T THROW EVERYTHING OUT!!!!!

 

[MeldrewsMate]

I cut the microswitch from the old 2 port switch and soldered it on to the faulty valve and it's working again now.
picture of microswitch if it helps someone out someday. Thank you for everyone's contribution much appreciated. View attachment 190559

WIFE...TAKE NOTE THIS IS WHY I DON'T THROW EVERYTHING OUT!!!!!

Here, here to that....

....but why didn't you just observe the valve opening when the thermostat was calling for heat? You could have seen the lever operate the (Honeywell V3) microswitch and observed that the boiler wasn't called (240v on the orange wire COMPARED to the neutral blue wire). You could even have poked an insulated plastic 'prodder' in to operate the microswitch, again to test its output is as expected. All this talk of 240v on the blue wire created a red herring, and two needless pages of discussion. Having said that, I'm glad you got it working again.
MM

 

[robbie77]

Here, here to that....

....but why didn't you just observe the valve opening when the thermostat was calling for heat? You could have seen the lever operate the (Honeywell V3) microswitch and observed that the boiler wasn't called (240v on the orange wire COMPARED to the neutral blue wire). You could even have poked an insulated plastic 'prodder' in to operate the microswitch, again to test its output is as expected. All this talk of 240v on the blue wire created a red herring, and two needless pages of discussion. Having said that, I'm glad you got it working again.
MM

Hi

I changed the post title as it originally said faulty thermostat which it had nothing to do with in the end. It was my DIY assumption.

The faulty valve was boxed in with CH pipes and very difficult to access, so last resort. There was no way of seeing the valve working until I removed the head and let it dangle then observe what was happening. Although I think I heard the switch click I was not confident enough to diagnose yet.

I've learnt how they work now, I knew roughly but like someone else said in this post WHY not push the lever on manual to open the valve and trigger the microswitch and orange wire live? Well on the Honeywell valve this is only operated electrically and the manual switch does not go far enough to engage the switch! I think on some brands this may be different.
Cheers