Honeywell Motorised Valve Microswitch Problem

[JonnyC]

Hello. I have central heating system which features a Honeywell V4043H 1106 motorised valve. There's little microswitch in this device which switches power to the boilers and pump when the valve is opened.

This microswitch has broken (using its built-in December alert mechanism). I've used a jumper on the connection box so we are not freezing, but I suppose this is not a good long term solution.

I know I can replace the entire powerhead with a 40003916. But this costs about £40. Does anyone have any idea if I can just replace the microswitch to save about £35. How can I choose the correct microswitch?

Many thanks

JonnyC

 

[seco services]

you can change just the switch.
but most engineers will change the complete actuator saves time and mucking about and also gives you a full warranty.

 

[AndyT68]

I've just got the same problem. Boiler will not start up when hot water is selected. Took the cover off the Honeywell zone valve and noticed the valve has motored over correctly and microswitch has made, (clicked). Only when one of the microswitch wires was wiggled, did the pump and boiler spring into life.
Question is, what is the part number of the microswitch and where can I get one?

 

[45yearsagasman]

Why not try and repair the poor connection. If the switch is no good then Maplin would stock them.There is no specific part number afaik. Just take the old one along as a pattern.
Be careful when poking about with it still live!

 

[AndyT68]

Good idea.
I'll get the wire in a position where it works and then seal it in place with some gunk.

 

[superstardeejay]

most valves use V3 microswitches, at least that's the electrical name for them, dunno what honeywell call them.

 

[Youllneverguess]

For £40 I am amazed at what people will go through...

Hey ho, life's rich tapestry...

 

[ChrisOxford]

I'll get the wire in a position where it works and then seal it in place with some gunk.

I wouldn't. The bad connection is basically still there and may start arcing, producing a lot of heat (as well as RFI which could disrupt your TV viewing!). This would be a potential fire risk.

At the very least, get a new microswitch. Essentially, if it looks the same, it should work in this relatively undemanding application.

But before you do, clean the switch's terminals with fine emery paper so they're nice and shiny, and close up the push-on connectors slightly with pliers, so they make better contact. The switch itself may actually be OK.