I have an older Worcester 24i combi boiler, with a potterton prt2 manual thermostat.

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I have an older Worcester 24i combi boiler, with a potterton prt2 manual thermostat, I believe it is possible to change over to a smart thermostat. which is the best/easiest one to change over to? I would like to use an app from my phone or PC if possible. and would it be a straight swap?
 
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The PRT 2 is a simple on/off switch, so any smart thermostat that is also an on/off device would do. However, most have a separate receiver [e.g. Nest / Hive / Wiser] which the wires from the PRT 2 would go to and then the thermostat is a separate wireless device.

However, if you want to replace the PRT 2 with a wired smart thermostat without an additional receiver Tado is a possibility. Details can be found here.

If your PRT2 is wired like this:

1708427570028.png


The wire in PRT2 TL would go to Tado COM (red in the example above)
The wire in PRT2 H would go to Tado NO (yellow in the example above)
The wire in N is not required and should be isolated and parked safely out of the way. (blue in the example above)

No connection is required to the NC terminal.

TADO CONNECTIONS
1708428518686.png


If there's a timeswitch somewhere else, or that is physically part of the boiler, that would be set to be permanently 'on' and all control (time and temperature) is done via the smart stat.
 
thanks for the reply.
when you say most have a receiver, which the PRT2 would go to - then have a seperate wireless thermostat to put anywhere i want, this might be a better option.
My current PRT2 thermostat is not situated in the best position (next to a door frame - it is always set way higher than it should be), I could maybe install the receiver where that is, then move the thermostat to a better location.
To achieve this do I need one that comes with a hub - or can I use my Alexa as a hub to control the thermostat?

something like this
 
no you will need a dedicated hub, most will work with alexa, but you still need a hub
 
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I got the Tado as mentioned by Stem, thanks for the recommendation, i took the cover off my PRT2 and it is wired a little differently to the one you have shown (please see attached - this has been up and running for at least 20 years as youcan see from the dust in there)

Mine is wired as follows:

1 -
2 + 4 linked
2 - Yellow
3 - Red
4 -
5 - Blue

PRT2.JPG


Do I wire mine up as mentioned above but swap the red and yellow

The wire in PRT2 TL would go to Tado COM (Yellow in the example above)
The wire in PRT2 H would go to Tado NO (Red in the example above)
The wire in N is not required and should be isolated and parked safely out of the way. (blue in the example above)
 
From an electrical connection point of view it is the same, just that the L wire is connected to the other side of the link.

Anyway in your case:

Red wire = Tado Com*
Yellow wire = Tado NO*
Blue wire in N is not required and should be isolated and parked safely out of the way

*In reality, because Com and NO are just an on/off switch it doesn't matter which way around the two wires go. When the switch is 'on' they are electrically connected together and when it's 'off' they are not. But convention is that the live wire goes to Com.
 
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Thanks for your help guys. i have a new issue to contend with before i change my thermostat. If i need to strat a new thread, please let me know.

OK, the reason i was changing the thermostat is because we are having all all walls knocked back to brick and replasetered. they took all the walls of on Thursday and Friday and to do this they removed 2 radiators.
it got cold yesterday to i clipped the front of the Potterton PRT2 back on and fired up the remaining radiators upstairs. all was well yesterday we had heat :)
Today i was having my plugs rewired and at one point it tripped the boiler. we left it off for a few hours then switched it back on. all good, we had hot water. the issue came when we switched on the heating.
after about 10 ~ 20 minutes of them being on, there was a bit of a whistling noise coming from the boiler. not too loud, but loud enough for all the household to say it was not normal. i could not hear it outside near the flue, only in the room where boiler was. i switch the radiators off and after a few minutes the whistling went (radiators were nice and hot, and we still had hot water).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what it could be?

we tried it again after an hour or so and it did it again, although not as loud.

the only other thing i did was to re-pressurise the system as it dropped to 0

the boiller is 20+ year old Worcester 24i boiler with manual dials etc. no display.

many thanks in advance.
 
Sorry. For some reason the whistling noise has stopped this morning?
Not sure what it was or why it happened.
I will let you know if it comes back.
 

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