Ideal mini c28

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4 Nov 2008
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Location
Dundee
Country
United Kingdom
I've got an ideal mini c28 combi boiler, only couple of years old. About 6 months ago, the timer went. This was ok as it was running properly just turning it on and off when needed.

About 3 months ago it stopped working altogether. When turned on it makes a sort of "click woosh click" noise time and time again. The green flashing light is operating normally (every 4 seconds when set to off, 2 seconds when i try to turn it on). If i leave it long enough, clicking and wooshing, the green light starts to flash faster. That had been the case for a while, and as we're not in a position to pay call-out fees and whatnot, we were starting to get used to the idea of a winter with lots of jumpers, duvets and the electric fan heater. The other day, i gave it another shot, and it turned on and worked for a day and a half, before going back to the click woosh situation.

So now, i just want to check whether there's anything obvious i could try to get it working properly again, which i might have missed on account of me being clueless.
 
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The only obvious thing you can simply do is to check that the system pressure is about 1.5 Bar.

These are fairly reliable boilers but obviously do occasionally end up with a fault condition.

"Woshing" might imply that the cap on the AAV is tight. Look in the book and see if you could check it as air in the system can stop the system flow switch from operating.

If you really cannot afford to get it repaired then have you contacted Warmfront who have many assistance schemes for those on benefits etc.?

You are quite a way from me, although I do like Dundee, so I am not able to suggest any way that I could directly help you myself.

Tony
 
Does sound like the flow switch isnt making!
check you have over 1 bar in the system check air vent is open (sits above pump wee screw like a bike dustcap!)
Failing that its an engineer out
Dont want to tout for business but the manufacturer does a call out all parts and labour for £220 A lot of money but covers everything including Hex!
 
The pressure sits around 1.5 when the heating is off. When it was running normally, it would rise up to about 2.5 or 3. I always assumed that was normal, is it?

I'm pretty sure, (though obviously i amn't a plumber so i can't say for certain), that the water pressure in my flat is too high. There's been a couple of things (the tap thing for the washing machine and the flusher thing in the toiler) that breaking themselves repeatedly, which i fixed by turning the tap leading to them down a notch or too. Could that have something to do with it?
 
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The expansion vessel is failed or discharged.

See FAQ on this site for details.

Tony
 
Ok, so reading that, it suggests i ought to be able to do it myself. Can I,? It all seems quite simple.

I assume then that it's not normal for the pressure in the system to increase when the boiler is on.
 
Its normal to increase about 0.2 to 0.4 Bar on heating!

Tony
 
Does sound like the flow switch isnt making!
check you have over 1 bar in the system check air vent is open (sits above pump wee screw like a bike dustcap!)
Failing that its an engineer out
Dont want to tout for business but the manufacturer does a call out all parts and labour for £220 A lot of money but covers everything including Hex!

I had a guy in today looking at the boiler, as anything else i had tried hadn't sorted the problem, and managed to have my . The guy reckons the main control circuit board (or something) is gone and needing replaced. He reckons it's "not going to be cheap". Is the £220 fixed price the one from Warmsure that the ideal website points to? If he does quote me a fair amount more than £220, is it severely bad form for me to say I can have it done elsewhere cheaper, especially as he was totally professional and was working really hard. Also, how long would I be likely to be waiting for a plumber from ideal to come out?

Cheers
 
Nothing that you have described makes me think there is anything wrong with the main PCB !

Wooshing implies there may be air in the boiler but you have not apparently been able to check if the AAV cap is just loose.

I am seriously worried about that person! Is he CORGI registered and where did you find him? In the pub?

Tony
 
The wooshing noise i was describing was the fan, turning on and off. The fan was constantly switching on and off, and the system wasn't igniting. When he disconnected the air pressure switch the fan would run fine.

What's a fair price for the PCB? Just to give an idea if he's taking me for a ride or no.
 
There can be a fault on the ignition PCB which can cause that symptom.

But it can also be caused by a faulty or wrongly connected air pressure switch.

The Ignition PCB will be around £100 to buy.

Tony
 
Maybe he did say the ignition pcb, I'm not 100% sure. Would I have any comeback if i pay him to essentially replace the wrong thing.
 
If the engineer has been paid to diagnose the fault and if HE then provides and fits that part and it does not cure the fault then he should remove it and replace the old one.

He should not charge you for a part which was not the cause of the fault and should rediagnose the real fault ( or refund the diagnostic fee if he cannot ! )

If you choose to fit a part yourself which he has suggested is at fault then I dont think you should expect any "comeback" except perhaps the refund of the diagnostic fee.

Thats a dodgy senario because some customers go and buy faulty parts, particularly on Ebay or from so called reconditioners. Many of these parts are NOT in proper working condition. Some are not exactly what they should be.

Tony
 
On the minis if its a 2 pcb one there are 4 dipswitches just above the 3 leds and the 4th one can put boiler in service mode - once in service mode, leds lighting up a particular way will point to a fault and hopefully shed some light on the matter.
 

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