Kitchen isolation switches for appliances & FCU's

[Paul_Thomas]

What's the current regs and best practice for appliances in the kitchen?

For example we will have an integrated dishwasher and washing machine, should these have unswitched sockets mounted behind them with an isolation switch above the worktop for each one?

We will be fitting a waste disposal unit into the sink, these seem to just need a switch above the worktop to operate them. I assume this would be a switched FCU?

How about an island chimney hood, I presume this will require a FCU mounted on a nearby wall?

Lastly I presume a USA style fridge/freezer can just have a standard switched 13A socket mounted behind it?

Would each of the above be a spur off the ring main or can they be part of the ring main?

 

[kevnurse]

You should not have any wall switch within human reach of the running water supply. Any large (heavy) machine should not be located such that you need to touch it to get to the associated wall switch to isolate it. Going to the consumer unit, in fault conditions, to switch down the circuit is not acceptable practice. It would be acceptable to fit un-switched sockets behind them with fused isolation switches above the worktop, but slightly to one side to ensure that you don't have to lean over it. Your suggestions about the island hood and the fridge are sound.

 

[DESL]

What's the current regs

Apart form BS7671 - Part P of Building regs (OK so I'll be the 1st to say it)

Would each of the above be a spur off the ring main or can they be part of the ring main?

Connect the supply side of FCU to ring and load side to single unswitched socket.

 

[Paul_Thomas]

I am aware of Part P requirements, the whole extension plan is being submitted to Building Control including changing of windows and electrics.

BCO is happy for me to get an Electrician to check and test once completed, all he is bothered about is a certificate (I could push and tell them that it is there problem as I am submitting under BC Application but I don't need to pi55 them off before I even start building )

We need a new Consumer Unit because of the extension so I plan on running all circuits back to the garage and leave the tails for a qualified sparky to swap CU and test after.

I am just trying to get my head straight on all of it first and make sure all of my plans are correct and all costs accounted for.


Just to confirm, can I pass the ring main through a FCU or does each one have to spur off a 13A socket? (In and out on the input side)

 

[Adam_151]

You may put the supply terminals of the FCU directly on the ring as you describe and its actually generally the prefered way of doing it

 

[securespark]

You should not have any wall switch within human reach of the running water supply. Any large (heavy) machine should not be located such that you need to touch it to get to the associated wall switch to isolate it. Going to the consumer unit, in fault conditions, to switch down the circuit is not acceptable practice. It would be acceptable to fit un-switched sockets behind them with fused isolation switches above the worktop, but slightly to one side to ensure that you don't have to lean over it. Your suggestions about the island hood and the fridge are sound.

Building Regs say 300mm minimum between cooker/sink and accessories.

You may inadvertantly touch any large (heavy) machine in the process of isolating it. What's that all about?

Using the mcb for isolation (fault conditions or not) is unacceptable.

If your appliances are under a 'top, then you'll have to reach the switch regardless of whether it is to one side or not...

Can you please explain yourself?

 

[kevnurse]

Building Regs say 300mm minimum between cooker/sink and accessories.

You may inadvertantly touch any large (heavy) machine in the process of isolating it. What's that all about?

Using the mcb for isolation (fault conditions or not) is unacceptable.

If your appliances are under a 'top, then you'll have to reach the switch regardless of whether it is to one side or not...

Can you please explain yourself?

1. 300mm is min safety distance by regulation. I wouldn't fit any socket within reach of a hand basin, regardless of regs. Thats why I said, "should". The guy asked for best practice as well as the regs

2. If the machine is in a dangerous condition (very hot, toxic fumes, pressurized steam, even fire; not just live electricity to the casing) you don't want to lean over it to isolate it. Locating a socket such that the machine can only be isolated, without touching it or leaning over it, by going to the MCB is not acceptable. Householders should be able to switch off all faulty static appliances without either leaning over them or inadvertently touching them. Thats why I said that the householder must not "need" to touch it when its dangerous. The ideal place place to locate the switch above the work top is to one side of the appliance so that it can be switched off without a leg inadvertently touching the appliance. Obviously there are some very small kitchens that need sockets and sometimes compromises have to be made.

 

[sparkybird]

I generally hardwire built in appliances such as dishwashers as otherwise you are not observing the rules of discrimination ie two 13A fuses one after the other.
Using single sockets also presents a problem if the fuse in the plug top goes - the client has to dismantle the kitchen to change it. If the only fuse is in the switched fused spur then it's a much easier job!

SB

 

[securespark]

So, you wire appliances in with a flex outlet, SB?