Laminate in Kitchens - Wall to wall or not?

[topgazza]

I have a long kitchen with dimensions of 3 mtrs wide and about 5 mtrs long. units along 3 sides with recesses for washing machine and dishwasher.

Do I lay wall to wall or can I just lay just under the unit edges, like the current vinyl flooring, using the feet of the units and the kick boards to hold the flooring?

Obviously for the machine recesses I will need to lay enough that thye can be slid out if required....on proper feet of course.

One way is a lot more expensive than the other and the waste of having flooring under units that will never be seen would be resolved. Any advice would be appreciated

 

[WoodYouLike]

see here

Question is already asked so many times on his forum, you're bound to find the right answer.

 

[topgazza]

Tried that but nothing seems to specifically address the question.


I've checked your website for product so hows about some advice...

 

[topgazza]

Looking at a web site that , amazing coincidence has the same name as yours, I am looking at flooring for my kitchen which is tough and can be waterpoofed. It will be laid over a latex type screed floor that is under the existing cushion vinyl flooring so I assume that is "floating"?

I have seen some that uses metal clips to stop expansion, movement etc. Not adverse to glue and I would want to ensure a tough waterproof finish that is not tiresome to maintain.

Thoughts?

 

[masona]

Do I lay wall to wall or can I just lay just under the unit edges, like the current vinyl flooring, using the feet of the units and the kick boards to hold the flooring?

Laminated flooring just past the plinth line about 25mm - 50mm then cut the plinth at the top & refit. The reason for cutting at the top, you cannot see the saw mark if you cut it badly

Obviously for the machine recesses I will need to lay enough that thye can be slid out if required....on proper feet of course.

Just take the laminated flooring to just under the washing machine then use exterior plywood to the same thickness of your underlay + flooring in the recess area. This will stop the weight of the washing machine giving the laminated flooring a tent reaction.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Looking at a web site that , amazing coincidence has the same name as yours, I am looking at flooring for my kitchen which is tough and can be waterpoofed. It will be laid over a latex type screed floor that is under the existing cushion vinyl flooring so I assume that is "floating"?

I have seen some that uses metal clips to stop expansion, movement etc. Not adverse to glue and I would want to ensure a tough waterproof finish that is not tiresome to maintain.

Thoughts?

No coincidence there
Thoughts: like Masona said, go a bit under the units and use plywood where the machines go. Not in favour of clips, wood is very strong and with extreme moist problems the clips won't hold things together (if you buy flooring with clips you will have to use them - and buy them separately - otherwise the guarantee is worthless)
If you install flooring on top of vinyl (plastic) use DPM and sound underlayment. Plastic subfloors can cause sweating = damp = moist problem.

As far the right product in moist areas (kitchens, utility rooms etc) use flooring that is suitable for it (i.e. most Wood-Engineered floors). You're better of with normal T&G where you glue the T&G to prevent moist going into the floor than with click-systems.

 

[topgazza]

Cheers guys. Interesting point about the plywood. Do you need to glue/pin the edge of the wood flooring down though?

Never been happy with vinyl flooring. The current one has lost its sheen and gets dirty just by looking at it, hence the move to wood. Still have a question on care and therefore choice of product. Laminate has a plus in that its zero maintenance, I've laid it in the bathroom and have had no problems at all. Just remove any standing water and all is well. Like the idea of the warmer feel of wood/engineered and from Wood's answer I assume any of the engineered floors are suitable. They seem to come oiled or lacquered

 

[WoodYouLike]

Oiled ones take a bit more maintenance than lacquered ones, BUT.... small damages on oiled floors are much easier to repair than on lacquered one (where the damage is done to the lacquer layer).

Plus, in kitchens your don't 'walk', you shuffle more (from cupboard to sink, form sink to cooker etc). Oiled floors can withstand this shuffling better than lacquer.

Hope this helps and remember: make sure the Wood-Engineered flooring you buy IS suitable for more moist areas.

 

[topgazza]

Any ones to avoid? Is is down to the type of wood? Oak is more porous than, say, beech? The Wood You Like website is quite informative but like others doesn't break the WE types down into bathroom/kitchen/lounge types areas very clearly. Is there a reason for this?

 

[WoodYouLike]

Sorry to have confused you. On our website we only mention that the wood-veneer is not suitable for moist areas, the other WE are (ours are, that is). When you buy from other company (like diy-sheds), they have to mention it on the packaging.

As for other things: Oak it pretty hard, so are most tropical (except Hevea = Rubberwood). Beech is nervous and a bit softer than Oak, European Maple is also softer.

Hope this helps, sorry is short answer, we are very bizy installing sample floors in our new showroom and things are a bit hectic at the moment.

 

[topgazza]

No, thats great. I'll be checking the site with more focus now....