Leaky Boiler Drain Cock

[paul176]

Hi

When we moved into our house recently the whole central heating had been drained down. Now its all up and running again but the brass drain at the lowest point of the hot water tank valve is leaking. I tried tightening it with a spanner but this has made it drip a lot faster! Is there a washer in there or will it need complete valve replacement? Is this a DIY job (Todate ive replaced a seized gate valve and was very proud of myself!)

Thanks in advance

 

[Burnerman]

Yep there is a small diameter rubber washer in there and the chances are its split. Easy enough to get a replacement - usually - but you'll need to drain down to make it easy for yourself.

 

[paul176]

Thanks... Next question, how do i access and change the washer? The link shows the type of drain cock im needing to fix. Thanks again,,,

 

[Burnerman]

Hello - I can't see any link here but if its a typical drain down cock that I'm thinking of, there is a spout that you could connect a hose pipe to, and a square nut that, when turned anticlockwise, causes the water to run down the spout. You undo this square nut completely, and pull it out to reveal the washer - or whats left of it - stuck on the end. Replace the washer, making sure it is the same size, naturally.

 

[paul176]

Thanks so much... Yes that sounds like the one (cant believe i forgot the link!!!). So do i not need to drain the system down first?

Thanks again

 

[kevplumb]

you do need to drain the hot water and turn the boiler off

 

[paul176]

thanks... I drained it down , but after about 10 bucket loads i had to tie up the ballcock in the expansion tank as i dont think id closed off enough gate valves. I opened up the drain cock all the way and was expecting to be taking just the little nut out so when it didnt come out i was about to reply to this thread to ask should i use force, when, embarassingly the missus went in and pulled the proper part out. The washer was almost non existant it was so chewed up. So ive replaced it, put it back together and let the ball cock go again and opened up the gate valves and everything seems fine. Should i be worrying about air in the system now?

Cheers again

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

If you've bled the radiators, then any other air should work its way out as the system moves the water round when its working. If you find any rads with cold spots at the top when system has been running for a while then bleed again. (Bleed with system switched off so it fills by gravity.)

 

[Burnerman]

Nice one Paul - don't forget though you will have most of the inhibitor from your system, and you should put more in....I prefer the Fernox stuff that you inject through the radiator bleed hole but thats just my opinion. Check the system for cool rads at the top for a few days, and bleed as necessary. PS if the missus wants a job......!
Cheers John

 

[paul176]

Thanks all. Off to B&Q in a while to pick up a 500 Mil bottle of Fernox F1. (Im learning)... Burnerman I will pass on your comments to the missus... She does have a great plumbers arse lol

 

[RigidRaider]

Be careful with that drain cock. I can't see your link but your story sounds like mine; the tiny soft rubber washer just broke up allowing boiling hot water to flood the bathroom. I drained down, took out the core and sat down with a sharp knife and a proper hard rubber tap washer and carefully cut it down to be a snug fit. It hasn't leaked since but I'm going to remove it from the system soon and put a decent quality drain cock near the boiler.

 

[Burnerman]

Thanks all. Off to B&Q in a while to pick up a 500 Mil bottle of Fernox F1. (Im learning)... Burnerman I will pass on your comments to the missus... She does have a great plumbers a**e lol

Fabulous