Lockoffs - what & where to buy ?

[SimonH2]

As per the title - can someone suggest where to buy some lockoffs, and even more importantly, what I need to buy ? I did have a look on http://www.safetyshop.com/ (suggested in another thread on here), but there seems to be a bewildering array of options

First off, some for MCBs/RCBOs like these with a gap of 8mm between the case sides where the toggle is.

Second, for this service switch. The toggle is about 16-17mm wide and does have a hole in it.

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• SimonH2
• 16 Mar 2011
• 2

I tried my local distributors this morning. One had none at all. The other had some for MCBs (which didn't really fit as they were for much wider gaps), but nothing else - they can get me some in a couple of weeks though !

 

[ricicle]

Masterlock any good ? Most decent wholesalers should be able to get them.

 

[flameport]

Lockoffs are largely unnecessary for domestic work, since a far better and safer option is to remove the circuit wires from the RCBO (and the neutrals from the neutral bar for MCBs/fuses) and connect them temporarily to the earth bar, then replace the consumer unit cover.

This won't take any extra time anyway, since the same wires would have to be disconnected before any testing is done.

Most of the pin types and clamp types can be removed fairly easily without tools anyway, and while people shouldn't do this, legal action against those who remove them won't help you when you are dead.

 

[SimonH2]

Or drop the tail out of the supply switch and replace the terminal cover ?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Or drop the tail out of the supply switch and replace the terminal cover ?

What a brilliant idea, close down the whole factory while you are working on a lighting circuit

 

[cumbriahandyman]

Or drop the tail out of the supply switch and replace the terminal cover ?

What a brilliant idea, close down the whole factory while you are working on a lighting circuit

Me thinks he was referring to a domestic situation.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Or drop the tail out of the supply switch and replace the terminal cover ?

What a brilliant idea, close down the whole factory while you are working on a lighting circuit

Me thinks he was referring to a domestic situation.

OK

What a brilliant idea, turn off the whole house including freezers, computers, SKY plus recording etc while you change a light pendant.

 

[SimonH2]

What a brilliant idea, turn off the whole house including freezers, computers, SKY plus recording etc while you change a light pendant.

Well if you look back to the very first post, you'll see that I was asking about a lockoff for the supply switch - I'd only be wanting to do that while working in the CU. Since there is nothing running at the moment (apart from the heating and that'll do without for a few hours), it's not a problem to knock the whole lot off for the duration.

For this particular one, I'm swapping out the MCBs for RCBOs.

Though looking back, I can see why you might think I'd be suggesting this for minor stuff - since I didn't differentiate when making that comment between locking off a circuit at the MCB (while working elsewhere on that circuit) and locking off the whole supply (while working in the CU).

 

[AdrianUK]

Interesting wiring of that isolator switch. Obviously been sealed by the DNO (upper cover) but why provide a double pole switch & then only use one pole of it, providing a solid joint for the neutral.

I know DNO's can be a law unto themselves, but........

 

[AndyPRK]

I was going to ask the same question

They don't appear to want you to isolate the Neutral

 

[SimonH2]

Interesting wiring of that isolator switch. Obviously been sealed by the DNO (upper cover) but why provide a double pole switch & then only use one pole of it, providing a solid joint for the neutral.

I know DNO's can be a law unto themselves, but........

Perhaps one of the experts can answer that one - it's the same for the flats next door as well, except that they also have a switch-fuse (DP switch) as well as (CU more than 2m from meter). Am I missing something when I think that having two switches at the meter is a bit overkill ?

Just for good measure, I always though water and electrics don't mix very well - and the idea of sticking electrical stuff outside in the weather for no good reason is a bit questionable. The box clearly isn't weatherproof

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• SimonH2
• 16 Mar 2011
• 3

 

[SimonH2]

I was going to ask the same question

They don't appear to want you to isolate the Neutral

Which would make sense if the tails didn't go straight into a DP switch in the CU (or for the flats next door, into a DP switch feeding the submain to the CU)

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• SimonH2
• 16 Mar 2011
• 2

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• SimonH2
• 16 Mar 2011
• 3

 

[westie101]

The isolator at the meter was introduced to remove the need for electricians to break mater and cutout seals to work on the tails to and in the CU.
When they were in use it was common to install a new supply in a viewing cabinet before the wiring was complete, with the electrician connecting to the isolator when the wiring was complete.

Trouble was they are only a single screw terminal so often would come loose or not be tightened in the first place.
This led to a number of cases where the neutral was lost on a PME supply!

So in some RECs they were done away with

 

[JohnD]

they probably got into the habit when they used to isolate by taking the Company Fuse out.

No better and no worse.

edited: I take westie101's point

 

[RF Lighting]

Have a look here.

They have something for every switch / MCB ever.

http://www.reecesafety.co.uk/MCB loto kits.htm