Monobloc fitting help

[Melter]

I've got a Madrid basin mixer bought cheap from B&Q to fit along with a new basin. I'm a total novice regards plumbing and could do with some advice. The main thing to know is what I need to connect the supplied copper pipes (as in pic below) to the hot and cold pipes. The supplied pipes are 10mm in diameter. Do I have to use these pipes or is it better to get some flexible pipes?

Apart from this is there anything else I should watch out for? The hot water is supplied by a tank in the loft so would I have any problems with water pressure?

As a novice please excuse any stupid questions/comments. Thanks.

 

[Jasonb]

You can either get a compression reducer that is 10mm one end, 15mm the other, fit a 10mm reducing bush into a standard 15mm compression coupling or take the tap and tails along to a plumbers merchants and get a pair of flexi pipes that have the correct thread to fit the tap body at one end and a 15mm compression at the other.

As you have little experience I would go for the flexi option, then you dont have to worry about bending pipes etc.

Fit the tap and waste to the basin before fixing the basin to the wall, that way you can get at the nuts easily.


Without knowing the particular tap I cann't tell what pressure it requires.

Jason

 

[ArtfulBodger]

Plus, you will almost certainly need a little box spanner to tighten the tap onto the basin, unless you are lucky enough to have one designed for a flat headed screwdriver.

 

[Melter]

Can you tell me if this is what I'm looking for.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=89941&id=27936
Are the existing tap tails redundant therefore?

Is it worth getting some ptfe tape or is this not necessary with this type of fitting?

Thanks.

 

[salem2000]

I have the Madrid Bathroom & Cloakroom sets, with the same tap sets.

I used flexi tails for the monoblock as it was easier and more forgiving with measurements. They will work with low pressure systems and the tails usually have rubber "O" rings so no PTFE was required.

When fitting to wall I removed the tap spout as this can get in the way, and get damaged easily when used as handle. I also used silicone between the taps and sink to ensure a good seal, it may be prudent to get some replacement washers from your local plumb shop (not B&Q) for the base of tap as supplied ones are cr@p.

For cheapees they look quite good though. Good luck.

Salem.

 

[Melter]

Just read in another post that check valves need to be fitted with a mixer tap if the cold water is mains fed. Does that apply to these taps? Should I do it anyway?

 

[tyro]

Interesting thread for me because I was a diy plumbing virgin until I recently attempted to replace my monobloc kitchen mixer with one from B&Q. Two weeks later the job is nearly finished........
This is what I learnt (apologies to the pros):

Yes you definitely need the flexi connectors as per your URL. Initially I tried to do it the hard way but life's too short.

When tightening the compression joint to the flexi connectors make sure you stop the latter rotating or you will damage the seal.

My tap model was different (1/4 turn leavers) but works OK off mains cold without a check valve and from gravity driven hot.

As a first step fit service valves above the tap so if your project does develop into a 48 hour nightmare you can perform other functions (like going to the bog).

Wrap ptfe tape/jointing compound round the compression joints before tightening. Apparently this shouldn't be necessary but from either over or under tightening I had to have a couple of attempts at each joint before I finally stopped them weeping.

The good news: Although I wasted a Bank Holiday weekend this was strangely satisfying and knowing what I know now (and with service valves fitted) I could do it in 1 hour.

A question for the experts: Having cut pipe with my Rothco pipe cutter the apperture was too small for my internal bending spring. Not just from a bit of burr but with an internal lip of 1-2mm. How do I get round this?