Motorised Valves

[autolycus]

Hi,

When I convert my CH to a sealed system, I want to also sort out some dodgy motorised valves.

I've got two Honeywell 4043 2-port valves (one 28mm one for CH and one 22mm one for HW) and both seem to be letting water through even when closed. On each valve, the motor can be seen/heard to operate, so I guess it is the valve body which has failed.

The CH valve has no knobbly bit on the head so I have no choice but to replace the whole thing - body and head - right?

But the 22mm HW one has the knobbly bit on the head which I understand means the head is detachable. So, does that mean I could potentially get away with just replacing the body? If so, where can I get one of these. The only ones I can find online are labelled as smartfit, but I think my system pre-dates the introduction of smartfit. Does it matter, or will a modern day smartfit 22mm valve body work ok on the existing head?

TIA,
Dave.

 

[Gasguru]

Get a ball and plate kit for each valve (about £10 each) and a new actuator for the 28mm valve. Leave the valve bodies in place...there are normally ok and just need the scale removing from the ball seating.

Don't even think about smartfit...carp product for the new build numpties only.

 

[autolycus]

Get a ball and plate kit for each valve (about £10 each) and a new actuator for the 28mm valve. Leave the valve bodies in place...there are normally ok and just need the scale removing from the ball seating.

So (sorry if this is a daft question) is it the ball on the ball and plate that sits inside the brass body and closes off the supply? Not stripped one down yet so can't quite picture how your suggestion sorts the problem.

 

[Gasguru]

Yes the ball/plate assembly bolts onto the valve body...then the actuator screws on. The older valves (without the bump) can't be seperated from the plate, hence the need for a new actuator on the 28mm.

Untitled

• Gasguru
• 30 Sep 2008
• 1

 

[autolycus]

Thanks for the pic.

So, the way it works is that when the motor operates, it turns the circular plate that the ball is attached to and, because it is offset, that moves the ball from side to side enough to open and close the valve. Right?

And so if the valve is sticking open then the combination of grubbing out the valve body and putting a sparkling new ball on it should be enough to sort it. Yes?

Dave.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Part No: 40003918-006, is the Plate & ball assembly kit for use with valves that do not have replaceable heads.

Part No: 272752A/U CARD, is the Replacement Ball & ‘O’ ring kit.