Need Some Advice

[bobtol]

Hi
I am re modelling my kitchen and want to try and get my sockets and appliances wired up so there is minimal plugs so i was think of this below. If you could read this and tell me if i could get this done.

I have a double socket from a ring mane and a 20A DP Sw + Neon for my water tank on one wall. One this wall i was going to have a switched 13amp FCU spur installed and have my fridge freezer hard wired to it. Is This Ok

Next wall i have a double socket. I would like to have a 13A Sw FCU + Neon spur coming from the double socket. I would then like my outside light connected to the Switched FCU. Is This Ok

Next Wall. I have a double socket and a cooket switch and socket. I would like to run a double socket spur from the Ring mane Double socket. Is This Ok

Next wall i have a double socket Spur from the opposite wall. I would like to run a 13A Sw FCU + Neon spur coming from the double socket spur then a Double socket spur from that for my under cabinet lights

Or could i have the double socket spur changed to a 13A Sw FCU + Neon spur then run a double socket from that for the cabinet lights as i will need to for the above lights and below lights.

Can you please let me know if i could get this done and if it would be a big job for someone, also how costly. I could have the boxes fitted and ready to just wire up if this is ok.

Thanks

Bob.t[/b]

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It really depends on your circuits how they are configured, the size of cable and the demand.
I would not hard wire a fridge/freezer they are best left as plug ins.
I would have the cooker on a circuit of it's own.
I'd also consider having any appliances ie washer/dry/dishwasher on a circuit of their own, with switched fcus to isolate above worktop. Then have a circuit for sockets above worktop for kettle/microwave/toaster etc and take a spur from these and down fuse for lights or take the lights from the lighting circuit.
There lots of things going on in a kitchen, so you must be careful of overloading circuits, that's why it is good idea to have two or three power circuits this room.
Part P of building regulations apply to this room, as it is notifiable work.

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p

As far as cost I recommend getting three or four quotes in, I'd also insist that you had references of previous work and remember to keep some money back as final payment on completion and certificates for the installation

 

[1john]

all ok apart from the spur from a spur scenario, the first accesspry needs tobe a 13A fcu or the best way is to extend the ring throgh all your new stuff.

dont do any work without finding a suitablally qualified electrician that can self certify his works and inform the LABC for you. Let him or her advise you as to where they want the chases for the cables and all that.

Beware that you may need other works done in order for him to do this job. RCD protection may not be present also main equipotential bonding conductors may be undersized or non existant. Now may be a good time to invest in a compliant consumer unit if you havent already got one.

Goog luck with the project.

 

[bobtol]

1john.
When you say all ok apart from the spur from a spur scenario, the first accessory needs to be a 13A fcu or the best way is to extend the ring throgh all your new stuff. Do you mean when you say the first accessory needs to be a 13A fcu is that for the question about aking a spur frm a spur. If so i meant is it ok if i changed the double socket spur to a 13amp switched fcu spur then take a double socket from that, would that not be ok, that would mean the the spur from opposite side of the wall would then be the 13amp fcu. Hope i am explaining this ok, it's quite hard for me to understand what i am writing so must be hard for you lot. My electrical box used to be in the kitchen but i had the kitchen done years ago and had the box twisted round and is now on the opposite side of the wall so is now on the outside wall of my kitchen. My cooker has it's own line and i see the water heater has it's own. Sockets all seem to be working of a ring for the whole bottom floor curcuits, also i think i have an off peak circuit still in place, there is plenty of room for adding so i might just get a new ring made up if thats not to expensive. Thanks again for the advice helpe a lot.

BOB.T

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Basically you need to find an electrician, discuss with him what your functional requirements are and let him get on with designing and installing something which will deliver that functionality.