NEW CENTRAL HEATING FAQ

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I am presently tidying up FAQs and will be putting all CH topics in the new CH sticky.

Any constructive comments /ideas or help will be appreciated. :D
 
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Good idea.

Can you prepare one and post into the faqs and I will make a sticky in due course. :D
 
I'm not sure I have enough in-depth knowledge to compile it, but how about an FAQ on the various heating chemicals - inhibitor, cleaning, desludging, descaling etc.?
 
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I'm not sure I have enough in-depth knowledge to compile it, but how about an FAQ on the various heating chemicals - inhibitor, cleaning, desludging, descaling etc.?

If you think it will be helpful to members please have a go. I'm sure you will be ok :D
 
I'm not sure I have enough in-depth knowledge to compile it, but how about an FAQ on the various heating chemicals - inhibitor, cleaning, desludging, descaling etc.?

Start of with a warning about using aggressive chemicals like acid e.g fx2, x800.
You can hurt yourself and others if you don't use it right, not to mention killing the boiler.
 
I've been less than busy today so here's a 'first draft' for people to pick apart. Hope it's OK :)

mogget said:
Chemicals in central heating - a brief householder's guide


Corrosion Inhibitor: Common Brands - Sentinel X100, Fernox F1 & MB-1

Heating systems contain different metals - steel in the radiators, pipes made from copper etc. In the presence of water and oxygen an electrical current flows and this results in corrosion of the 'weaker' metal. Typically the steel radiators are eaten away leading to pinhole leaks and iron oxide 'sludge' which can cause all sorts of problems. For this reason it is important that any central heating system has inhibitor added to the water. This slows the corrosion process and prolongs the life of the system. It is NOT worth skimping on - even one week without inhibitor can be enough to cause problems.


Sludge Remover / Cleaner: Common Brands - Sentinel X400, Fernox F3

Sludge can collect in radiators, heat exchangers etc and cause inadequate water flow or heat transfer. When a system has fallen into disrepair, sludge remover can be used. This dissolves the sludge into the water which can then be drained out. These chemicals are quite gentle and take some time to work. X400 in particular requires up to a month to be effective.


Flushing new or newly modified systems: Common Brands - Sentinel X300, Fernox F3

When copper pipework is installed or altered, flux and other residues can enter the system. These must not be allowed to remain as they may cause corrosion problems later on. Flushing the system using the appropriate cleaner will dissolve these residues into the water. The system must then be fully drained before refilling with water and corrosion inhibitor.


Aggressive Cleaning: Common Brands - Fernox DS-40

If there are severe scale or sludge deposits, an aggressive cleaner may be used. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions. It should be borne in mind that agressive cleaning can unmask the poor state of some systems. Radiators and heat exchangers leaking, boilers failing, and pumps seizing are not unheard of.


Mechanical power flushing is something altogether different and beyond the scope of this basic guide.
 
Nice one. Will put pics and numbers to posts in due course.

Anyone else got any good ideas or topics? :D
 
Good ideas?
Don't know about that, but I have a dirty mind if that is any help
 
You seem to have been editing them and in the process have deleted some of the numbers!

Its far easier for us to say "See FAQ 37" so please reinstate a numbering system.

Please add on your own posting about flueless fires a strong statement that all existing flueless fires MUST have an audible tone CO alarm installed in the same room to help to protect the occupants.

Tony
 
so please reinstate a numbering system.

Hi Tony
Give me a chance!!!!! :LOL: . Will do so. I have asked Admin for a new Common Boiler faults sticky so will move relevant posts to each.

Please add on your own posting about flueless fires a strong statement that all existing flueless fires MUST have an audible tone CO alarm installed in the same room to help to protect the occupants.

Good point. Any more observations are welcome.
 

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