Evening all,
Been grafting away today on this re-wire.
As part of the kitchen refit my Dad has bought a single oven. Although this can be connected to a 13a supply, because I've got enough 10mm cable left over from the shower I figure I may as well put a 10mm cable in for the cooker circuit. However, this raises one possible problem.
I'm planning to run 10mm cable from the CU to a 1 gang 45a switch above worktop level. From there I'll run 10mm down to a 1 gang box below worktop level. However, once there, what do I do? I can't attach a 13a socket to this box because I doubt I'd fit 10mm cable into the terminals. Likewise, I can't attach a FCU eiher for the same reason. I don't think it would be good practice to fit a cooker outlet point and connect the cooker flex directly to this since the rating of the oven flex would be much lower than the 45a MCB protecting the circuit.
I was therefore thinking of taking a 2.5mm cable from the cooker outlet to a FCU and connecting the oven to this - would that be OK?
Alternatively, I was thinking of just using a 16a MCB in the CU for this circuit but that could cause future confusion if the house is ever sold.
Another question on this. Is there a way around having a separate isolator for the Gas Hob Ignition? I'm conscious of the fact that with all the above counter isolators, there's going to be little wall space (that wall won't need tiling due to the number of switches and sockets lol). I'm guessing it's probably not best practice but would it be acceptable to connect the Hob Ignition to the same FCU on the cooker circuit?
I'd thought of using the Hood FCU or the ashing Machine FCU but this is probably just as bad practice as my proposal and less logical. If it's acceptable to use one FCU to isolate two appliances then it seems more logical to have the Ignition and the Oven on the same isolator (which would actually be the 45a switch above worktop level, fused down to 13a below). Aternatively, could I take another FCU from the 13a FCU to which the Oven will be attached and attach the Hob to this (fused down to 3a)?
Apologies if I've not been able to explain myself above in an understanable manner - my head is mashed. Hopefully you'll be able to decipher the code.
Your thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated and welome.
Cheers.
Been grafting away today on this re-wire.
As part of the kitchen refit my Dad has bought a single oven. Although this can be connected to a 13a supply, because I've got enough 10mm cable left over from the shower I figure I may as well put a 10mm cable in for the cooker circuit. However, this raises one possible problem.
I'm planning to run 10mm cable from the CU to a 1 gang 45a switch above worktop level. From there I'll run 10mm down to a 1 gang box below worktop level. However, once there, what do I do? I can't attach a 13a socket to this box because I doubt I'd fit 10mm cable into the terminals. Likewise, I can't attach a FCU eiher for the same reason. I don't think it would be good practice to fit a cooker outlet point and connect the cooker flex directly to this since the rating of the oven flex would be much lower than the 45a MCB protecting the circuit.
I was therefore thinking of taking a 2.5mm cable from the cooker outlet to a FCU and connecting the oven to this - would that be OK?
Alternatively, I was thinking of just using a 16a MCB in the CU for this circuit but that could cause future confusion if the house is ever sold.
Another question on this. Is there a way around having a separate isolator for the Gas Hob Ignition? I'm conscious of the fact that with all the above counter isolators, there's going to be little wall space (that wall won't need tiling due to the number of switches and sockets lol). I'm guessing it's probably not best practice but would it be acceptable to connect the Hob Ignition to the same FCU on the cooker circuit?
I'd thought of using the Hood FCU or the ashing Machine FCU but this is probably just as bad practice as my proposal and less logical. If it's acceptable to use one FCU to isolate two appliances then it seems more logical to have the Ignition and the Oven on the same isolator (which would actually be the 45a switch above worktop level, fused down to 13a below). Aternatively, could I take another FCU from the 13a FCU to which the Oven will be attached and attach the Hob to this (fused down to 3a)?
Apologies if I've not been able to explain myself above in an understanable manner - my head is mashed. Hopefully you'll be able to decipher the code.
Your thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated and welome.
Cheers.