plasterboard to solid wall

[wishy]

I have had problems with a shower room and have had to remove old tiles and boards. Th boards were not fixed correctly with hardly any noggins in drywall. Some plasterboards were simply nailed into place on a solid wall. Susequently the tiles moved and water got behind the grouting, cowboys

The question is;
One side of the shower wall is half solid breezeblock and half drywall. The drywall wooden frame and solid wall are not flush. Is it possible to build out the wooden frame flush and then attach plasterboard direct to the solid wall with plug and screws...or...is it necessary to build out the wooden stud wall further to allow batons onto the solid wall.

The wall is an internal wall.

Basically I guess I just need to know if it is possible to attach plasterboard to a solid wall without batons...and how is the best way to do it. Sorry if this is more complicated than it needed to be!

 

[sintra]

Take a look at this

http://www.everbuild.co.uk/products/search/PINKGRIP DRY FIX

 

[wishy]

Thanks Sintra looks almost too good to be true.

Will it hold board in place though after tanking, tiling and grouting weight is added. I wouldn't like to experiment!!

Anybody used this gear for shower walls and is it not possible to use both this and screw and raulplugs...belt and braces

EDIT: I would only need one canister and I presume the gun is not cheap?

 

[mobileman]

How much building out of the stud wall is required?

I'd be inclined to just build the stud wall out around an inch further than the breeze block wall and then dot n dab the boards to the blocks and screw to the battens of the stud wall.

 

[Richard C]

Dot & dab is the way to go a mobileman suggests & use drywall adhesive; no doubt the Pinkgrip stuff works but I bet it's bloody epensive by comparison! Batten out the stud wall to around 6-8mm proud of the bare block work, fix new 12.5mm boards to the studwork & dot & dab new boards directly onto the block work levelling with the studwork PB. Overlap the block work with the adjacent board on the studwork at least a 200mm if you can as it will help prevent cracking tape & fill the joins. Use green moisture resistant board rather than ordinary wall board which will be fine if you’re tanking but if not you need to use a cement tile backer board (Aquapanel or similar) in the wet areas, ordinary PB & even the moisture resistant stuff will disintegrate if water gets behind the tiles.

I would advise you do a little more research before you start; reading the archive posts on here is a good place to start.

 

[wishy]

The stud work is only 40mm shallow and one board will cover the whole area. Dot n dab sorry to be so naive but is this plaster or adhesive and should I then plug and screw for extra strength to the solid wall?

I really don't want to have to do this again should the boards start to move and tiles come off!!

Pinkgrip is abot £7.00 tube £25 for the gun but the spec sheet of do's and don'ts is huge.

 

[Richard C]

The stud work is only 40mm shallow and one board will cover the whole area. Dot n dab sorry to be so naive but is this plaster or adhesive and should I then plug and screw for extra strength to the solid wall?

This is Drywall adhesive;
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...roc_accessories/gyproc_dri-wall_adhesive.aspx

This document is a guide to dry lining which includes fixing by dot & dab (page 4);
http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/wb_drilyner_08_06.pdf

No need for extra screws in the wall.

I really don't want to have to do this again should the boards start to move and tiles come off!!

As long as it’s done properly, the boards won’t move use these if your tanking;
http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/plasterboard___accessories/gyproc_moisture_resistant.aspx

or a cement based tile backer board if your not.

Use only the best trade quality flexible & waterproof tile adhesive & grout, I use nothing but these;
http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products

It’s not cheap but you get what you pay for; don’t be tempted to use budget DIY shed stuff.

Pinkgrip is abot £7.00 tube £25 for the gun but the spec sheet of do's and don'ts is huge.

As I thought; a bag of Drywall adhesive will cost you around £5 & will be more than enough to do what you want.

As I said previously, it sounds as if you’ve not done this sort of thing before & whilst it’s not rocket science, you do have to understand what you’re doing. Do a little research & be satisfied you are confident enough to do it or you could end up with yet another mess; if not get a pro in.

 

[wishy]

Thanks very much appreciated Richard C.

I will indeed be getting a professional tiler in to do the tanking and tiling, however i must add that I did think I had got a professional to do the work initially, but it proved otherwise in the end.
The builder was even recommended by my local council as a reputable trader and the tiler also came highly recommended.

Why is it so difficult to get honest, conscientious tradespeople in the first place, particularly when paying so much for the work

Anyway rant over back to researching, cheers...

 

[Richard C]

I will indeed be getting a professional tiler in to do the tanking and tiling, however i must add that I did think I had got a professional to do the work initially, but it proved otherwise in the end.

Problem is the cowboys will just bull*hit you. They will drink your tea & eat your biscuits & be “ever so nice” but unless you do you homework & understand what’s involved you’ve really no way of knowing if they are any good or not & then you stand a very good chance of being ripped off; I don’t trust anyone & even I get shafted sometimes!

The builder was even recommended by my local council as a reputable trader and the tiler also came highly recommended.

Complain back to them & tell them their recommended contractor was carp, otherwise he will just continue to get away with it!

Why is it so difficult to get honest, conscientious trades people in the first place, particularly when paying so much for the work quote]

It’s a sad fact of life that there are many cowboys around these days & they have no moral scruples. “Punter gullibility” & the system just allows’ them to get away with it but, hopefully, the current economic downturn will get rid of more than a few of them! The problem is that those who really know what they are doing are usually committed for months in advance when times are good & if they do happen to quote for “jobbing” work & price accordingly, they are undercut by the learners & cowboys; & I know everyone has to learn but!! The real pros know what it takes & the cheapest quote is not always best. Always get several quotes (up to 6 if you can) & you should see a pattern emerge. Try & have a basic understanding of what’s going on & don’t be frightened to ask what may appear (to you) as stupid questions to those quoting; if they are uncooperative & don’t really want to answer, cross them off your list! The experience on this forum is second to none so don’t be freighted to post for opinions or advice before deciding or if you have doubts or a problem. Most of the cowboys won’t even bother quoting if they have even the slightest inkling you have any idea what you are talking about; customers can be a pain in the arse but genuine tradesmen will be only too happy to explain things for you because they know what’s involved & that’s why their quote may be higher!

 

[wishy]

Sound advice indeed thanks again Richard C.
Many punters however are not totally gullible but out at work most or all of the day and this means upon return the damage is already done and hidden.

I did complain back to the council and, no surprise, got no response.

Thanks again Richard I have now read all the stuff you sent and I am certainly wiser for it "...the more you learn the less you realise you know..."