Potterton Suprima 80

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23 Dec 2018
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I’m having the following issue with my boiler pump:
after the hot water and heating “clock off” from their programmed stop times the pump randomly continues to run on.
There is no pattern to this that I can establish sometimes it’s only the Hot Water sometimes only the central heating, sometimes the issue doesn’t occur at all.
Where I have the central heating programmed to start After the hot water has passed it’s off setting (early morning setting) the pump just keeps running stopping the Central Heating ON time to operate ... the only solution is to have the reset button on the boiler pressed in for a few seconds which stops (with a slight flowing/rushing water sound) the pump which has been running continuously from the end of the Hot Water off time.
The consequence being waking to warm water but a cold house.
To add, the warning on the boiler (Potterton Suprima 80HE) has either a solid red or flashing red indicator
‘Solid red’ - System Wiring Fault.
‘Flashing Red’ - Lockout.
However I’ve noticed the occurrence of both warnings but mainly the flashing.

Could the sound of rushing water I’m hearing upon pressing the reset button which stops the pump, be indicative of anything - air in the system perhaps ??
Hoping someone will have experience of such a problem and offer some pointers...

Many thanks.
 
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has the PCB been changed to the more recent ones a pic of the front of the boiler and red light will tell
 
Thanks ianmcd, Im uncertain of the history as I only bought the house a year ago. Ill take a pic of the panel with the light and upload that.
 
IMG_3920.jpg
IMG_3921.jpg
 
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yes you have the upgrade PCB , but that doesnt mean it is not faulty, I have replaced a fair amount of the upgraded ones, your pump is wired into the boiler controls and when the boiler goes off the pcb will keep the pump running to cool the boiler down and will switch the boiler off when it is ready, but intermittent lockouts are usually the PCB
 
That’s great, thanks for confirming the upgrade.
How much is a replacement pcb approximately. Also is there a air lock bleed valve that I can’t find - I understand there’s an auto pressure release ? But in addition to that can I manually check for any air in the boiler system or is that one and the same by bleeding the rads?
Again many thanks
 
Something not right with the pump and motorised valve positions. Looks like your pump is on the return and pumping away from the two port valves. Not sure it would cause your symptoms but its not correct.
 
yes you will have a pressure releif valve but do not touch it , if you do it will probably leak, if you look at page 4 of this link you will see that your pump is installed wrongly and needs to be turned 90 degrees, not saying this is causing your problem but will not help, I know this is a different pump but same applies to yours

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1526955/Grundfos-Ups3-15-50-65.html?page=4#manual
 
Thanks to you both for highlighting that issue, I will get that addressed quickly.
The joys of moving home ....
 
Thanks to you both for highlighting that issue, I will get that addressed quickly.
The joys of moving home ....
your pump is on the return and pointing in the correct direction, but the zone valve should not be on the return, the pump head is pointing upwards and shouldnt be , it should be at the 9 oclock position , to be honest if it was me I would cut my losses and get a new boiler fitted by someone that knows what they are doing and not just someone that will throw another boiler at the wall, if you say where in the country you are someone might be able to recommend someone to have a look and give you the best advice
 
Thanks again, upon closer inspection the reason the pump is incorrect would be because the gap between the flue and the pump is insufficient so it wont let it rotate to the correct angle and rotating the opposite way wont let the door cupboard close .... definitely a poor install. I'll get it replaced when the double glazing is sorted ... never ends .... Im near Camberley, Surrey.
 
A quick question - is there such a thing as a 22mm female to 28mm male compression joint ? The new hot water cylinder has 22mm for the flow and return coil but the existing pipework is 28mm ... another can of worms !
 

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