Problem with Biaisi Riva 96/28 SM/C

[FlameThrower]

Hi

I wonder if somebody can help. The diverter valve was leaking, so the engineer replaced this. Since then, try as he may, he cannot get the bolier to fire up. The green light on the very left is blinkiing once every 2 secs, and no other lights are ON or blinking. The pump comes on, but the fan (and the ignition) do not. He spoke to the technical people at Biasi, and they suggested checking the voltage across the two PCBs (the one on the right is Honeywell). The voltage on the left is 240V, but as soon as he plugs the cable into the right board, there is no voltage. He has replaced both the boards and the temperature probes. There is not much else left to change.
Pressure at 1 bar, external T/stat.

Can anybody help? Many thanks

 

[Agile]

I dont really think that we should have to tell a customer what his RGI should be doing!

After draining the boiler the most likely cause of not proceeding is that the pump proving switch is not making.

But the best advice would be to get a more competent engineer!

You should not be paying for parts like PCBs which are not required to repair the boiler. My expectation is that its only air in the boiler and that no parts are required.

I really wonder how such inadequate people can come out of their houses and get into a van if they cannot do such simple tasks.

Tony

 

[FlameThrower]

Thank you Agile for your reply.

I totally agree with you regarding the competence (or the lack of it) of some people who have the sticker on their van. Unfortunately, he has left me with no heat or water whilst he has gone to mess somebody else up.

So I was looking to see if there is anything I can do which does not involve the gas which I will not touch at any cost!

So I will try to bleed all the radiators and see if that makes any difference. What puzzles me is that when the boiler was first fitted, the RED light used to come on when there was air in the system. This time there is no red light (maybe it is broken).

Thanksfor your reply. Much appreciated.

 

[Agile]

Bleeding rads is likely to make it worse!

When someone has changed PCBs there is the added possibility he has not connected them correctly and added new faults.

Better you check the AAV cap is slightly loose and bleed the boiler pump as explained in the FAQ on this site.

If that fails to get it going, then if comfortable, remove the flow switch and start boiler and operate the switch manually with a toothpick immediately after the pump starts. You only have a few seconds before the system shuts down. The pin should come out about 9 mm promptly when the boiler starts and be fairly hard to push back with a finger.

The fault codes give an indication of whats wrong so you should be checking that too.

Tony Glazier

 

[FlameThrower]

Thanks you Tony for your reply.

I will try the pump first as suggested by you and in the FAQs. If that does not solve the problem, then it will be the next suggestion.

Many thanks

 

[Agile]

Both green lights should be on when there is a demand for heat.

BUT that will only show when the links on the control PCB are correctly set.

It may have been left set as for the M90 which only shows the left hand green light.

Tony

 

[FlameThrower]

Many thanks for your help. Really appreciated.