Puma 100E Lockout problem

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Hi All..

i wonder if anyone out there could help. I have a Potterton 100e. Problem is that when i put on the hot water especially in the bathroom after about 20 secs the lockout light comes. I replaced the PCB, flow switch etc and the problem is the same. The only thing that stops the red light coming on is setting the hot water temperature to a minimum!!

Could anyone have an idea of what the problem is.
In my limited experience it seems that the boiler thinks that the water gets too hot thus lock out?? am i right??

Please help, much appreciated

M
 
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Pump not circulating properly? Hows the CH? Could be`the stat, as you say.
 
The cost of replacing the PCB etc. might have paid for a professional.

How about checking the pump operation during DHE, then the HW NTC, then the switch off delay of the DHE demand switch?

Tony
 
Well you can understand why they don't get a professional round, 80% of them can't fix boilers and sell them a non condensing combi which they don't gwn can't certify in a place where the flue would cause disputes between neighbours if it were a steamer in half a day at a £500 profit without powerflushing.

So not knowing where to find you and me they have to have a try for themselves.
 
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Thankyou you nice people for the ideas.

How should i check the pump?? The CH side works perfectly fine.
is the demand switch a flat looking brass body with a spring inside, if so i have checked that and it works fine......

How about checking the pump operation during DHE, then the HW NTC, then the switch off delay of the DHE demand switch
Hi Agile... what is NTC and is the DHE demand switch that which i have just made reference to??
 
Well Paul, you are in Scarborough, probably snowed in today, and I am in North/West London!

The reason for not calling a professional that I usually encounter is just a desire to save money but sometimes they end up spending more on parts which are not required.

If he is not even sure what the flow switch is then I wonder how he can be so sure that its working properly and specifically releasing promptly.

The NTC is shown in both the manual and on the connection diagram on the inside of the front cover.

A certain level of knowledge and some test equipment is required to properly check the operation of boiler components.

Tony
 
I know, it's really hopeless when we get these poor non competent people (not referring specifically to this one poster) wanting their boilers fixed by wifire.

It's just that it seems a lot of posters here have had a lot of trouble with their repair professionals so you can see why they have a go.

Basically a good repair man is worth hios weight in gold. I don't count myself as one but I'm trying to become one, and always pay for my own mistakes, don't charge the customer. Sometimes it would have been better not to have started on a boiler!!!!
 
Hi guys

I came to this forum to see if there is anyone out there who may just have the common decency to point a simple person in the right direction.

As the saying goes never ASSUME as it makes an arse out of u and me!!!

A potterton "engineer" changed the PCB as he said this was the main problem. When that didnt work another "engineer" decided to change the flow control thingy..........and that didnt work.

As i have spent alot of money on so called "professionals" and the problem still exists i thought i may find a route to the problem here...

Please dont ASSUME that everyone who wants to find out for themselves is an arse...... you dont like it when when we, the general public, think you all are COWBOYs out to ripp everyone off with your fancy talk and abbreviations!!

So please, if there is anyone out there who may genuienly want to help please contact me...................................

if you want to snigger abouts peoples misfortunes please have a good look at yourself as i am sure u may just have better things to do than to write smart arse comments all day!!
M
 
I had my misfortune week a fortnight ago, Hilti DD130 stolen with all accessories, replacement cost £1,600. Crashed van, estimate repair £500, tore someones vinyl floor, estimated cost £175.

I wouldn't be able to help you without being on the spot Tony who has much more experience might. I'm not conversant with the Puma, I do know it is a problematic boiler.

You have suffered from parts changers, but don't Baxi do a guaranteed fix so if they changed the pcb and it's still faulty get them back.


Paul
 
sound like the (NTC) Thermister for the DHW but with these boilers being so **** it would be best to do a full fault find but seeing its ok in C/H mode then I'd go with the NTC as it aint that expensive.. a multimeter and a compentent enginner should be a ble to confirm if this is the fault or not in about 60 secs though..
 
murrad, whilst i agree and sympathise with your problem (we had 2 "engineers and several visits to fix our boiler, gave up in the end and got in bg, it even takes them several visitits to get it right, but that is another story)

the resident boys can not really give specific advice without actually seeing the problem. you do seem to have an idea of what you are doing, but most that come on here do not give all info (as you have done) and they (resident boys) get a bit fed up with answering the "same old questions"

now to that you may well say well if they get fed up with it they should not reply, it doesnt work like that, they really do want to help, but a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, and they tend to get a bit sarcastic (i do a similar thing with some of my replies both here on the forum and in my other job

all i can suggest is try some more heating engineers, but do ask are they conversant with your boiler, or do as i did, get bg
 
You said """A Potterton engineer changed the PCB as he said this was the main problem"""

Surely if you had really paid Potterton to fix your boiler then you would call them back to fix it properly?

So many times I hear this stated but on investigation it turns out not to be true at all or its an "off duty" engineer met in the pub who screws you for £100 and fixes nothing.

There are plenty of competent engineers out there. We give a No Fix - No Fee guarantee, surely we are not the only fair traders in the country? Even so we still get cheaters who stop their cheques or try to avoid payment. Its so bad with absentee landlords that we have to ask for payment before we start work.

Tony
 
hi guys... thanks for all your help, really appreciated...

I did contact potterton but they said the pcb sorted out another problem as there were several parts within the pcb which were burnt out. To that effect i really didnt want them coming back until i had a clearer understand myself.

I will look into all the suggestions and keep you all posted.....
Again, thanks again guys.....

M
 
Tony, I am sorry for you, but it's a great relief to me to hear you have the same problems I do. I too have decided to do no more work for landlords I don't know, when a tenant rings "on behalf of the landlord" I say you pay me and get it back off landlord." Phone goes down and I never hear from them again.

Now that might sound unfair, because such tenants may not have a brass farthing, but why is it fair then that I donate my labour and parts and make a herculian effort to get their boiler working for FREE?

I don't mind giving to charity and I don't mind helping out the vulnerable once I'm in the situation if my heart is touched and I sense a real need, but I'm not running a relief agency for tenants with broken boilers.

Same reason when I get those "landlords" phone calls saying how much for a safety cert only one appliance in each flat, I tell them such a high price over the phone I'm guaranteed not to get it, it's probably only another plumbers wife anyway.

Like you no fix no fee. Unlike you I'm less adept but I'm learning very fast, I have a new core drill to pay for!
 

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