Push button cistern problem

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Hi

This will probably turn out to be a stupid question, but newbie to this and wonder if anyone can offer me some advice please :oops:

Go a single push button flush on a cisters (looks like made by Jika?), which i have 2 problems with.

1. Plastic button has broken off, and i can't find replacement to fit anywhere

2. Overflow constantly trickling into toilet.

My question is, am i likely to be able to remove it and get a replacement with flush button from a plumbers merchant?
Are they generally the same and able to fit any cistern, or would i have to find exactly the same part.

Thanks
Gary
 
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You can most likely replace the drop valve with something like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/43148/Plumbing/Toilet-Fittings/Variflush-Toilet-Drop-Valve

The fittings (that I've come across) tend to be the same size across the board.

If the toilet is running down the overflow then either the inlet valve is poorly adjusted and isn't cutting out before the water reaches teh overflow, or the diaphragm in it is shot and needs replacing. (assuming it isn't an old ballcock design).

In my opinion it's easier and not much more expenive just to change the whole inlet valve for something like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/55211.../Adjustable-Height-Bottom-Entry-Torbeck-Valve

In short, you need to remove your cistern, replace the guts, and put it back again.

Good luck!
 
So the drop valves are pretty much a standard size / fitment?

Its defo the overflow, the inlet valve does cut the water off okay but is also a bit slow to fill up so i'd probably replace both at same time.

The inlet valve is on the top left hand side of cistern and is quite short inside, with a long tube/pipe going down into the cistern. Are these likely to be standard as well?

Thanks
 
some flush valves have a 1 1/2" some 2" bottom outlet.

if its leaking over the overflow the flush valve is not at fault.
have you tried adjusting the float valve ?
 
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Sorry, i meant its defo not the inlet valve. It fills up (albeit a bit slow) and cuts off long before the water reaches the overflow level.

The water trickles into the toilet until it reaches a low enough level for the inlet valve to activate refill it again (and so on)

I'll take it to bits at weekend and take the flush valve somewhere to get a replacement.

Thanks
Gary
 
Yes, its passing throught the flush valve somehow and trickling into the toilet.

As above, is it easier for me just to replace the whole flush valve instead of trying to repair it (especially considering i haven't done this before)

Cheers
 
depends i won't replace the whole unit for the sake of a washer seal.

if you isolate the water to the cistern and flush the loo and hold the flush valve half way down and twist it it will come apart and you can see the seal.
sometimes its only scale that needs cleaning off or the seal turning upside down if its gone out of shape.
 
The flush mechanism only needs changing (per your original post) because of the broken button, but given that the inlet is fine you probably do have a leak at the bottom of it.

You can either change it for new and eliminate it as the problem, or check for grime as suggested. Also, take the cistern off and check that the bottom or the flush valve assembly which is screwed onto the bottom of the cistern is tight.

I had exactly the same issue, changed the flush mechanism for new and still had thh fault.

I ended up changing the donut washer between the cistern and the pan and that cured it. (I know this makes no sense, but it worked?!)
 
a do-nut will only leak when flushing the wc if no other part is passing water for it to get to the do-nut.

jika is only the make of the toilet not the make of the internals.
 
I'll take it out and see if i can get a replacement flush valve. Because the button is broken, i need a new one anyway so might as well replace the lot.

Thanks for your replies. Hope its as easy as it sounds :)

Gary
 
I had a Jika push-button cistern.
These have non-standard workings inside.
Toilet would flush and shut off, but then gradually the inlet would start to open again.
Was baffled for a while, as could not see any water dribbling into bowl, but it was - very slightly.
The bottom seal was a thin white silicone type, which had developed blister-like bubbles on the outer edge.
Could not find a direct replacement and a standard rubber seal did not work at all well.
Saw a comment on another site advising these bubbles could be pricked with a pin and tried this as a last resort.
Surprised and delighted, as this seems to have done the trick.
 

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